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Would you like to know what it takes to replace an outboard engine
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Well, today you will find out exactly that. This boat is a 34-foot yellowfin that currently has twin 350 horsepower mercury verados
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and we will be replacing them with two brand new 350s. This week's contest prize are these sweet toadfish suction cup coosies, so don't miss your chance to win them
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Now, some of you might be asking why they would replace the engines. And the only reason this boat is replacing them is because they are a pro team member
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and they put around 1,500 hours per year on the engine. engines, so every couple of years they proactively replace them
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When it comes to replacing an engine of the same brand engine, same drive shaft links
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same rigging, controls, and propellers, you don't need to take the time in figuring out
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and running all of these things. We don't need to figure out things like the ripe propeller pitch and size, and the right propeller
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pitch and size for fuel economy or speed and the correct engine mounting height, which we have
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videos for both of those questions already for you, and you can check those out by clicking
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the card in the top right-hand corner of the screen or by the links that are in the description
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Without needing to figure this stuff out, we can just remove and replace the engines
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Since we'll be reusing the same propellers, we can just zip these off the engines and
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set them to the side. Because this is a twin engine application, we'll need to remove the tie bar connecting the two engines by removing the four bolts holding the brackets on
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We won't change any of the setting of the tie bar because we'll be using the same exact setup
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With the tie bar off, we can open up the chaps and derig the engines
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These engines are super easy to derrig. They are all plug and play and we just need to unhook the water and fuel hook the water and fuel sensor boat harness that has the fuel sender hooked up to it the steering pump sensor wire then the 14 main harness that goes to the helm
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the fuel hose coming from the fuel tank, and then the negative ground cable
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as well as the positive power cable, feeding the battery power to the engine
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And that's it. The engine is fully derigged, and we can do the same exact thing to the sister engine
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And now that we have our two engines derrigged and the tie bar off, we'll need to get access to the mounting bolts down in the bilge
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Removing access plates is a lot easier if we cut out the sealant first and then pop them off
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We still need to remove the steering hoses from the steering cylinders and then get our engine lifting eye installed onto the engine
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Some engines will have a plastic airbox or shroud that will need to be removed in order to get to the flywheel where we can install the lifting eye
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Once we get those off, we can install the lifting eye onto the flywheel and we are ready to remove the engine mounting bolts and pull
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off the old engines. It's also really important to have somewhere to put the engines once you get them off
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So make sure you know where you are taking them whenever you get them off
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After we get the old engines off, we need to clean up the old sealant and I like to take
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a half inch drill bit on a drill and clean out the holes and on the transom to allow for the new bolts to go in smoothly when we put the new engines on We also clean up the rigging and get the transom cleaned off and ready so that we can move into the next phase of the process
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where we get the new engines, get them uncrated, and prepared to install onto the boat
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The nice thing about new engines is that all you need to do is uncrate them and then pull them off the rack
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For the port engine though, it doesn't come with a steering cylinder, So we'll just install the old cylinder onto the engine before putting it on the boat just to make it an easier install
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With that steering cylinder on the engine, we can bring the engine up to the boat
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and instead of checking for and setting the engine mounting height, we can go ahead and put the 4200 sealant around the mounting plate inside the transom
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the bolt holes on the inside and outside of the transom and the holes that are in the bracket on the engine
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We'll get the bolts ready and then with a power pack hook to the engine we can hit the
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trim button to change the angle of the engine bracket to match the angle of the transom
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which will help us to be able to push the bolts through the transom and the bracket
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and then torque them down to fasten the engine to the transom. Then with the engine tied on the transom, we can take some cheap degreaser and a rag and clean up the excess sealant that is smushed out to leave us with a really clean install
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When doing a twin engine or more install, we like to install the port outside engine first and then completely rig the engine without having the engine next to it in the way
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Since most of the rigging is on the starboard side of the engine, this makes it way easier and quicker
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to rig. Hey A quick tip about these engines and the rigging is that on brand new engines inside the fuel line here there is a small filter
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This is something that you should check if you start having a running issue after about two or 300 hours
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It's not uncommon for these to be forgotten about. Once we have the port engine completely rigged, we'll hook up the steering hoses to the steering hoses to the
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steering cylinder and then we can move over and do this exact same process with the other engine
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With both engines on the boat and the steering cylinders hooked up, we want to show you a trick to making it easier to fit a cowling onto an engine
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which is why you'll want to hit that subscribe button and let us know how old your boat engine is in the comments section below
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Include a hashtag toadfish if you'd like to win these sweet suction cup toadfish coosies
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Now with brand new engines, we always have to check the engine oil level and then top them off
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But for the engine cowlings, we'll just take some dry silicone and spray it around the gasket here where the caling goes on
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We'll also spray it on the gasket to the caling so that whenever we push the caling on, it will slide on smoothly. smoothly
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With the callings on and the engines ready, we can go ahead and configure the digital system
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start the engines and fill up the power steering system, put the boat in the water, and watch
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out for manatees. We'll take the boat out for a test drive to make sure everything is operating smoothly and now
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you know what it's like to replace an outboard engine. Enjoy it Tuesday night and we'll see you next week
