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Outboard Lower Unit Rebuild With Seal Replacement
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Aug 16, 2024
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View Video Transcript
0:00
What's up everybody and welcome to Technicians Tuesday where today we will be completely disassembling and reassembling an outboard lower unit
0:12
This lower unit goes to a mercury verado and we will be changing out the drive shaft from a 20 inch to a 25 inch
0:18
Now let's get to tearing this thing apart. We start out by draining the gear loop and then since this is a 5.4 gear case, it will have what is called a torpedo ring that covers the gland or spanner nut
0:30
name you call it is fine. There's a little Allen head bowl that locks it in place. It's a 3 and
0:35
30 seconds inch head, but most of the time for us in salt water, they are corroded in place. So we just
0:40
drill them out and then using a punch and a hammer, get the ring spinning and spin it off. With
0:46
the ring off, we can bend this tab here down like this, and then we can take the spanner nut out
0:51
and then remove this tab washer here. If the nut won't come out, we will have to drill it out
0:56
These nuts are made out of aluminum, so a good drill bit will eat right through it
1:01
Just put the holes in sort of a triangle pattern around the nut and then knock the pieces out
1:05
With the nut out and all of the shavings cleaned out of the gear case, you'll need a jaw puller to pull the carrier out of the carrier out of any gear case
1:07
You'll need a jaw puller to puller. This can get pretty sticky, so if you can get this kind of a jaw puller, it'll make your life much easier
1:16
Otherwise, I'm not really sure how you can manage to get the carrier out of any gear case, especially in salt water
1:21
So if you have a trick, let us know in the comment section below
1:25
With the carrier out, we can spin the reverse gear and it will pull right out of the carrier on this style lower unit
1:31
A quick way to know if you have this style, just look at the carrier and if you can see four sections on the carrier
1:37
then your gear will come out like this one. If there are three sections, you will need a press to get it back together
1:43
After taking the gear out, you can pull out the bearing inside of the carrier
1:47
Now we can replace the seals on the carrier while we are here
1:51
These seals are actually super easy once you get to this point
1:55
Just take a roll pin punch and carefully knock them out by pushing them into the carrier
2:00
Be careful not to hit the bearing race and scratch it though. Then with a little bit of gasket sealing compound just push the new seals in back to back with the lips of the seal facing away from each other And push them in using an inch and a half PVC pipe Just like that our prop shaft seals are done
2:17
With our carrier all cleaned up in the seals in, we can set the inside bearing back into the carrier
2:22
Make sure to get it set correctly in the race, and then we can install the shim and then the washer that goes on top of it
2:29
Install a new o-ring, and then add the spacer over it. Now we can just set the reverse gear back into the carrier and only turn it a quarter turn
2:36
so that it holds itself in place for when we go to reinstall it
2:40
Now we can move on to removing the drive shaft. We just need to pull off the water pump and housing
2:50
Then using a screwdriver, slide this ring out and off of the drive shaft seal carrier
2:55
These things are pretty easy. Just take two screwdrivers and pry the carrier out
3:01
Which gives us access to the drive shaft bearing carrier nut. This is the tool that we use to remove the nut
3:07
I've already broke it free, so now we can work on removing the pinion nut
3:11
which is on the bottom of the drive shaft. You can use a 1 and 1 eighth inch wrench to hold the nut
3:17
Then you'll want to have the drive shaft spline holder to get it off. Without that tool, you're going to be stuck using a pipe wrench or some channel locks
3:25
Just make sure you stay away from the top section of the drive shaft because there are o rings and seals that the drive shaft goes through into the oil pan on the engine
3:33
If you would like to see us pull a powerhead and show you these seals, I'll put a link to that exact video in the description so you can see what we're talking about
3:42
But moving on with our gear case here though, with the pinion nut off, we can pull out on the drive shaft like this to get the pinion gear off
3:49
Once we fish that gear out, we can go ahead and pull the drive shaft out of the gear case, which will allow all of these needle bearings to go all over the place
3:57
We'll have to get them all out, and it is important to count them to make sure we have all of them out
4:02
On this case, there are 21 of them. Once we have all of them out, we can pull the prop shaft out
4:09
Since this is a standard right-hand rotation gear case, we will push the prop shaft to the right to get it off of the shift crank
4:16
and then just pull straight up to pull the prop shaft out with the forward gear and bearing assembly To disassemble the prop shaft components we just take out this cotter pin here and spin off this
4:29
nut. Then the gear will just slide right off and in order to inspect the clutch dog we want to
4:34
take this spring here off that will allow us to push this pin out and then we can pull this rod
4:39
out and the clutch dog will come right off of the prop shaft. Putting the thing back together
4:45
is pretty simple. Just put the clutch dog back on so that this hole here lines up. Then push this
4:50
rod back in and turn it so that the holes all line up. Insert that pin again and then work
4:56
the spring back over the pin keeping the assembly together. Now just put the gear assembly back on
5:02
then this piece that engages the shift crank, the nut, and last but not least, the cotter pin
5:07
Now our prop shaft is ready to go back in. This leaves us with our shift shaft, which is probably
5:12
the easiest part on the case. We'll just take the bowl of the bowl. out and then wiggle this carrier loose with a screwdriver so that we can pull it off
5:19
Now if the shift shaft is stuck, just take a screwdriver and pry up on this circlip here until
5:24
a shift pulls out. Reach in the case and grab the shift crank and we have this thing completely disassembled now
5:30
So let's change out the drive shaft and put it back together. The whole purpose in changing this shaft out is because this was a 20 inch drive shaft lower unit
5:39
which is more common on outside engines such as a quads application and then flatsboats
5:44
where a 25 inch shaft is more common for single engine and twin applications
5:49
So this will be more useful as a 25 than it will be as a 20
5:53
But to do this it does require changing out the bearings on the drive shaft, which must
5:57
be pressed on using a press. There are two bearings on the shaft that go back to back
6:03
Once we get these bearings onto the drive shaft, we can begin the reassembly process
6:07
I won't go into great depth on the reshimming process for the sake of time, but this does
6:12
require us to reshim the gear case because we have changed. changed out a major component
6:16
We'll start the reassembly process by inserting the shift crank into the freshly clean
6:20
case and installing the shift shaft until it fits down into the crank
6:25
We will want to change out the shift shaft seal before putting the housing back on just simply remove this ring and pry the old seal out Put some gasket sealing compound on the new seal and stick it down into the housing Now just grease up the O ring and slide the housing down into place
6:40
Now we can take the prop shaft assembly and install it the same way we removed it
6:45
Pushing the shaft to the right and then hooking these lobes onto the shift crank
6:49
you can then look down through the drive shaft hole and make sure that the clutch dog is shifting back and forth properly
6:55
This portion here can get pretty tedious. You want to take some needle bearing grease or some good marine grease and install all of those needle bearings back into the lower unit
7:05
Once we get all of the bearings in place, we want to slide the pinion gear into place and insert the drive shaft until we get the pinion gear onto its splines
7:14
Sometimes it is easier to get the nut started by using some electrical tape on the wrench and using that to hold the nut in place until we get it started onto the drive shaft
7:23
Torque the nut down and we can put the shim, bearing race, and drive shaft nut back in place
7:29
Grease up the O ring on the seal carrier and press it down into place, securing it with the metal ring
7:35
Now we can reinstall the bearing carrier. Make sure you grease up the O ring and then stick your finger down into the carrier
7:41
so that you can hold the bearing in the correct direction against the race
7:46
Slide the carrier over the prop shaft and guide the bearing on. Then press the carrier down into place until it seats all the way down
7:53
You can check it by looking down through here. Install the Bering Carrier Tab Washer, Spanner Nut, Torpedo Ring, and it's time to do a pressure check
8:05
Fill up the gear case and then reinstall the water pump, which is going to bring us to the end of our day here for this week's Technicians Tuesday
8:12
We want to thank you for sticking around with us today. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up and if you're new to the channel, hit the subscribe button for more videos
8:21
Check us out on our website at born againboating.com for all kinds of helpful boating articles
8:26
and we look forward to seeing you next week
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