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Making Boat Paint Look Pristine! (Best DIY Method)
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Aug 16, 2024
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View Video Transcript
0:00
Pristine boat paint is 90% preparation and only 10% application
0:04
We'll show you exactly what products, tools, and steps are included in this preparation
0:09
Our steps are faring, sanding, priming, and using a special putty for filling pinholes
0:13
We'll start with faring because no one wants to watch five days of sanding, but just know that we had to grind and sand every surface that we are planning on painting
0:21
The three main tools we use to grind and sand are going to be a four and a half inch grinder, a five, six, or seven inch orbital sander, or DA, and
0:29
an oscillating tool like this fine sander. Getting these corners, I use this fine sander with these pieces like this
0:36
What I do is I get a belt sander and like this is 36 grit. I will take this belt and I will cut the belt and then I'll put it on the fine sander
0:44
with this attachment here. It's how I can stick that down into the grooves like this to get these really rounded out edges
0:53
It leaves a nice finish once it's done. Faring requires four basic products
0:59
A resin, which could be epoxy or polyester, the hardener or MEK for the resin, a sanding aid with wax, and the faring compound or powder that we mix up to a mud-like consistency
1:11
There are two consistencies that we will be looking for when we mix it up, being either a thick peanut butter consistency, which we will use for vertical surfaces and a smoother, creamier consistency that we can use for filling holes and smoothing things out
1:24
When it comes to faring, this stuff is only for faring. It's not really for repairing, say cracks or holes or anything like that
1:32
If you've got a crack or a hole, then you need to repair it with glass first
1:36
then fare over the top of the glass to make it flat and smooth it out
1:40
The purpose of faring is to basically remove lumps, uneven spots, and make smooth transitions, bends, and fill in voids or imperfections in a fiberglass surface
1:49
So if you've got a bunch of blisters, you need to first find out what's causing the blisters
1:54
but then after figuring out what's causing them, then the faring filler will be used to smooth out the surface
2:00
Faring filler comes in different powders and two-part compounds. You can mix the powder with epoxy or polyester resins
2:07
Collodial silica is a common powder used. It's more structural and not necessarily for faring because it cures super hard
2:14
so it's more for like an adhesive filler. Total Boat also makes some good compounds
2:19
but for us today, we're using polyester resin with M-E-K-P and the sanding aid for our resin mix
2:25
The sanding aid will create an outside layer to the filler when it dries, which helps it to cure up hard
2:31
Just know that when you use the sanding aid, you do have to grind in between the coats of faring filler
2:37
Once you've stirred up the resin, the MEK, and the sanding aid, we'll add our faring powder
2:41
For our faring filler, we'll be using West Systems 407, which is a low-density microballoon-based faring filler powder
2:49
But they also make a 410, which is easier for sanding. Also, this is the bottle that we're using to measure the end
2:55
MEK to add the correct amount to our resin. Based on where we will be applying the compound
3:01
we'll determine how thick we want the compound to be. I'm going to mix a little bit of it up and
3:05
show you. First time, we're going to do the peanut butter stuff. Then the next time we're
3:09
going to do the creamy stuff. And then I'll show you how when we wipe it off what it looks like once we get it wiped off. We are going to take our faring filler and pour that in there like this
3:18
Now we can stir this up. Should we wipe it off the sides of the bucket? So this is what I'm talking about
3:25
was runny. That is running. We need a little bit more than that. And that is just above our peanut butter
3:45
consistency. So this is what we're going to want for to make it thick. That's about pretty much
3:52
exactly the way we want this for building because it just barely runs. Actually, that's more for
3:59
smoothing. You'll probably add a little bit more to this to get it to stick on vertical surfaces
4:05
because it runs just enough. So if you're doing a vertical surface, you need a little bit more
4:13
than that. And that's for a vertical surface. See how that sticks and doesn't drip? That's exactly
4:19
what we're talking about with the peanut butter consistency. our faring filler and using a plastic spreader or a rubber squeegee, we can then apply that onto the
4:28
boat and make it as smooth as you possibly can to minimize the amount of sanding that you have
4:32
to do later before applying the second coat of faring filler. Then the next one, we don't want it
4:38
to be as thick because the thicker it is, the more void you're going to get in it or air pockets
4:43
So as we came back through, you can see all these little holes here of these air pockets that
4:49
we're left because of it being so thick which now that we've put that first coat on there
4:56
and built it up now we're going to come back on a second coat because we've sanded it down
5:01
so now this is all smooth but you've still got all these air voids basically of because of
5:08
how thick it was now we're going to make it a little more creamier and have it a little more runnier
5:12
just to fill in all those voids but also when we smooth it off it'll be smoothed before
5:18
we do anything else what we're gonna want to do is we are going to want to take our air nozzle here
5:24
and you can see all these holes after you sand them they're full of stuff so we want to take our air
5:33
and that way we can blow all the stuff out of there and then we'll come back over that and wipe that
5:39
down with acetone it'll save us a little bit of work on the back end because after we primer
5:43
we're going to take some of that glazing putty to fill in any pin holes but any of these big things
5:48
like this we can go ahead and hit those now with like this right here we're gonna hit
5:54
that with some more faring filler to take all of those away so you can see how this is a lot
6:02
creamier and it's running off so it makes a little bit more difficult to trowel but for filling those
6:08
little holes that's what you want because we can smooth it off a lot easier than we can with that other
6:13
stuff so let me show you about this right here by doing a couple examples So as you can see, it fills in nicely all those little holes, like these right here
6:44
But it's going to leave us with a lot less sanding to do anything left over that's got a hole in it we'll be able to hit with that glazing compound
6:54
now what we're going to do is we're going to go around the boat with a pencil and we're going to
7:00
mark any low spots that we find or anything that we need to kind of fix like obviously you need
7:06
to pack some stuff into this right here anything else that I can feel I'm just going to circle it
7:18
A lot of that stuff the primer going to take care of but any deep stuff I going to hit Well now we should only have to go one more light round with the sander
7:34
We've got everything fared out. We've went around all of our pencil marks
7:39
We've hit every single one of our pencil marks with our faring. We've built up a couple spots
7:44
We are going to have to do a little bit of grinding on some of these corners in the
7:49
these edges but that's kind of the way you got to do an edge there's not really a way around it
7:55
outside of first building it up and then once you build it up then we can come back and knock it down
8:02
smooth so that way you'll get a nice sharp corner other than that that's kind of the only way
8:06
that I know how to do these corners like this so that's a little thick other than that everything
8:11
else is all filled in fair it up built up we'll hit everything once with the sander a few moments later
8:19
pretty much all the way around the boat now sanding everything off finding any high spots getting
8:25
all the gummy stuff off and pretty much have the entire hall inside and out smooth ready for the
8:32
primer all this is pretty much done as well except for that spot there so now i'm going to take
8:36
this off of the trailer i won't be able to get up on the boat anymore but we don't need to get on
8:42
the boat anymore once that spot's sanded we will walk around the boat with our air nozzle and blow out all
8:48
the little holes and everything that around the boat spray everything off. Once it's all been
8:53
sprayed off with air, we'll come back and wipe everything down with acetone just to make
8:59
sure we get anything that's left on the boat off of the boat before we spray the primer. Just because
9:05
we're outside in the air, in the elements, it can get all kinds of dust and stuff on there. So
9:10
making sure we wipe it down with acetone just to get anything that's on there off of there
9:14
before we put our primer. That way we won't have our primer bubbling over time, say if there's a little
9:20
piece of grease or a little nick of something that we missed, if that's on there and we prime it
9:26
that will bubble later and fail. After we get everything prepped over there, we'll go ahead and move
9:30
over here and start this process. That's why you want to wipe it off. Look at all the stuff that came off just on that top
9:44
portion of the thing. All that dust and all that dirt, you got to get that off before you paint
9:58
Well, we've got everything blown off, cleaned up. Everything has been wiped down with acetone
10:03
even our camera tripod, so that is sitting there because I do want to keep that close to show as we
10:10
spray this. We do need to hurry up because the sunlight's starting to come in, so we maybe got
10:14
an hour and a half in order to spray the whole boat. So we're going to begin by mixing up our primer
10:22
And then we're going to spray the inside first. We're going to do three passes on the inside
10:27
Once we do those three passes, we'll do three passes up here on the top
10:31
Well, actually, we might start up here at the top, do three passes on that, come back, hit all this three passes
10:37
and then we'll come back and do the entire outside. And what we're going to be using is some all-grip primer
10:42
So this all grip here is a two-part primer. It is just a gray finish primer and the finish primer epoxy
10:52
So there's your converter and the white base. It's a 50-50. So we're going to mix this up into our cup
10:59
We'll probably do, you know, eight ounces and eight ounces together. Fill the hopper
11:05
We're going to filter it. We'll put one of these filters in the hopper before we paint it
11:10
So we'll do eight ounces. eight ounces stir it up real good once it stir it up we'll run it through the filter into the hopper
11:16
and then we will be ready to paint and then we'll just continue back through that entire process
11:22
until we have all the codes on there we might have to take one break in between everything uh just because
11:30
of how long it's probably going to take to do the whole boat we might have to stop in the middle run acetone
11:34
through our gun just to clean the tip out and clean everything out that way we get a nice even spray but
11:40
we'll see if it starts to clog up or not. If it doesn't, then we'll just keep spraying until it does
11:45
But hopefully we can do it without cleaning it. But we're ready if we do need to clean it
11:50
So let's mix up our first coat of primer, fill our gun, and let's lay a line
11:55
We do have our fans going right now. They're going to be blowing anything overspray out of here
12:05
Just because we don't want anything on this boat, I covered those motors just in case
12:09
but there shouldn't be any kind of overspray since we're all the way over here and we got our fans going up into the air
12:14
so there's a kind of a gust of wind going over the top of the boat so any kind of overspray is going to be taken outside of the tent
12:20
and it won't be getting on anything that we care about so donovan is over there sleeping and i will see if i can get him going
12:39
The Feel bad idea
13:39
I'm gonna go to the I'm going to
14:39
I'm going to be. So now that we're all sprayed and primed up. We're looking a lot better than we did. All this is going to go into the
15:19
rub rail, so everybody that comes over keeps pointing out that there's a run right there. But again
15:25
that's going to be under the rub rail. And I am the world's worst painter. So we're not too
15:30
concerned about that. But the rest of this is looking pretty smooth. I do need to go ahead and
15:35
finish cleaning up a couple spots down here that are messed up. Steve's getting a phone call
15:40
so we'll wait till he's done getting the phone call. But the rest of these little pinholes
15:45
we're going to have to come back and hit all these to clean all this up with some glazing putty
15:51
And then also everywhere that I kind of messed up, the gun, I actually didn't have the air compressor on
15:57
For some reason, on the gun, it was shut off. And therefore, that's what all these wrinkles are
16:02
I was too close, and then it just started spitting out. But we'll be able to sand all those out and clean all that up
16:07
The glazing putty to fill all these little pinholes, But at least now we can see all the pin holes that we need to do
16:13
It's not near as bad as we thought it would be, and it's actually looking pretty good for what it is
16:19
And so now it's time to do the cleanup of all of our gun
16:26
and all the mess that we made while we were painting. So we need to clean out the gun, get the tip all cleaned out
16:32
clean up all this mess. So let's go ahead and clean that out. I'll show you how we clean the gun with some acetone
16:39
So first thing that we're gonna need to do is we're gonna need to fill our hopper with somacetone and we're gonna leave it plugged in though
17:09
I'm going to show you what we got for the paint gun
17:26
This right here is the most expensive paint gun at Home Depot
17:33
Actually, that's a lie. This is probably the mid-level one at Home Depot
17:39
It's only like, I don't know, 100 bucks. So, actually, this is the one that's like $60
17:46
It's not the $100 one, but it doesn't come with the regulator or the nipple. So you've got to buy the nipple and this little regulator thing that shows the thing
17:54
Also, you never want to hit that with acetone. It clouds up the plastic, and, well, as you can see, you can't see it
18:02
So, $60 for the gun. Comes with the tips. You buy that little thingy to turn it on and off and check
18:09
the pressure this one right here I believe turns the air on and then you just squeeze the trigger
18:17
and check the tip to see how it goes put paint in it and that's pretty much it that's uh that's it
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hundred bucks for the gun and boom you're painting obviously you need an air compressor to run the
18:31
gun but other than that that's pretty much it for the equipment obviously i suck at painting so you know
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take what I say with a grain of salt but you really want to stay I don't know six to
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eight inches away from what you're doing and you want to be consistent you also want to go
18:48
slow I have a habit of going too quick and when you go too quick it goes on thin and if you go
18:54
too slow or you get too close then it lumps up and ripples but for the most part this isn't
19:00
too bad I got some low spots that I needed to fill right there but sides that's not too
19:04
bad it went on fairly well so that's the gun the paint the primate
19:09
that we used was again this all grip 545 all you need is one of the hook things and with the
19:18
hook thing couple two-by-fours boom now you can hold your thing mix up your paint pour your
19:23
paint in and you're rocking and rolling okay here we are today we've got the primer on the boat
19:29
and now we need to go around with a light and we are going to look for any imperfection at all with our
19:38
light going around like this so all these pinholes that are like this all these pinholes
19:46
i will be able to fill all these with the glazing putty hey that's not where the drain goes
20:00
the glazing putty will fill all the pinholes but i've got some other stuff coming that's
20:07
gonna fill all these right here. I was hoping that our rub rail was gonna go over that
20:11
and cover that but after I looked at the rub rail that we've got and then I'm gonna get it's
20:18
not as big as what was on there. I think going with a smaller rub rail is gonna make it look a lot
20:23
better so I'm gonna have to go ahead and fix that as well as down on the bottom too because
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the rub rail only came to like here. So I've got like a quarter inch down here that I've got
20:34
to fix. I've just got to get rid of of anything like this, all those imperfections
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I got to fix all those because now they are going to be visible
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when before I thought that they were not. So, what we're going to
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do today is go around with our light first. And anything that's
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big, I'm going to mark the big stuff with the pencil. And then once I mark everything with the pencil
20:57
all the way around the boat, then I know where my big stuff is. I might have
21:01
to sand a little bit here. But then all my pinholes, all the other stuff
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like this, that big divot there, I'm going to have to cover that with the other stuff
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But these pinholes, I'll be able to fill that with the glazing putty. And then once those pencil marks are on there
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then we're just going to start from one end and go all the way around the boat by section
21:20
putting the glazing putty in all of the little pinholes. We're still here going around with our glazing putty and it's just a very time consuming thing to go around and hit all these holes
21:46
Got the light here. I like to look into the light so you can see any kind of hole that's there with looking into it like this
21:56
You can see a lot of stuff like that. Right now I've gotten all the way around the entire outside of the halt except for the bottom up here in the front
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but I'm going to move ahead over to the console. Once I down with the console we move to the inside of the boat do the inside of the boat Then we go down here hit down here and then we take our light and walk around the boat one more time to make sure that we didn miss anything
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And as long as we didn't miss anything, we'll hit all those spots. Then we're going to come back and sand all this stuff down
22:25
But we'll actually also need to do the other putty for our bigger stuff
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And for that, we're going to be using this Evercoat, polyester glazing putty with a hardener
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two-part deal and that is going to be for all of these big spots like this right here for that right
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there and for like this right here where i need to build this up a little bit more just to clean that
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edge out right down there we need to hit that um that's what we're going to use that putty for
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obviously like those i'm not worried about those because this is all going to be under uh bottom
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paint so we're going to do those once we finish the haul with our real paint we will pick the boat up
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stick it on a rack that will let us get up underneath there to do the bottom paint
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Well here we are again
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So all we got to do is go around this whole boat with 220
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We'll probably have to use a little 120 on some of these thicker spots on this stuff that I put on here
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but all the rest of this is just going to be hit with 120
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I have penciled in any little marks that I missed, so we're going to go around this morning
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and just fill in those pencil marks with our glazing putty and then anything that is deeper that we missed
24:30
I missed one spot up here. I didn't get the chance to get to that one, so we got to do that one
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A couple other little spots that have sunk. We're going to hit with our glazing putty, this stuff, the two-part stuff
24:42
But once we get all those filled in, then we will start sanding
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And we'll just spend the entire rest of the day sanding everything out
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And then that way tomorrow, we should be able to come in in the morning and spray our paint
25:05
All right. All right, we are on to the final phase of the final phase of this process
25:38
Now we've got the boat out in the sun so we can see everything so we can literally go around and see all of these spots where we need to do a little bit more work
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So what we're going to do is come around and I'm going to do pencil marks around everything
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That way we can come back and make sure we can come back and make sure we. we don't miss anything when we do this because we only want to do it one more time
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and a lot of times you got to feel it with your hand so this just needs a little bit
26:31
more sanding so we're gonna put an S there for sand besides that
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Okay, so now we're gonna go around the whole boat and feel every inch of it just to mark it all up so we know what we got left
27:08
And here we are with the final pass of the filler and the sanding
27:38
everything circled. I mean, you can't even see that there is a problem here, but in the sun you can
27:44
So there's just little itty-bitty things that need to be filled like this right here
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There's just the tiniest little bit of holes. Same thing for here. There's like three little pinholes right there, but now we can, we put it out in the sun
27:57
We can see everything. So before we paint, we need to go ahead and fill each one of those
28:01
Some of the spots like this needs to be sanded. Same thing for these hatch marks
28:06
So circles are filled. hatches are sanding so we are at the point now of you know that'll be need to be
28:14
sanded down a little bit this will need to be filled a little bit so we'll go through and we will fill everything that is circled with our glazing putty
28:23
we'll take our glazing putty since it's all little stuff and we'll fill all of
28:28
our circles with some glazing putty then we'll come back and sand everything one
28:33
more time with the 220 then we will be able to spray our pants
28:38
Looking down the side of the boat. All looking good. Inside. Okay
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So now we just need to go back around here one more time. Make sure we didn't miss anything
28:49
I'm going to take a piece of sandpaper and I'll go around by hand with the sandpaper all the way around the boat
28:56
But look at all those spots are gone. Boom. That was pretty smooth
29:01
They only have one, two, three, four spots that didn't get hit
29:07
actually this right here I'm gonna sand that a little bit more just to clean out
29:15
these whalers are very difficult they like the holes warp because of how thin
29:20
they are because they're all foam so as time goes on they they do warp but other
29:28
than that everything's looking pretty pretty good on this is looking good once
29:34
Once we get some paint on it, it's going to look beautiful
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