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Hello everybody, welcome to technicians Tuesday
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Today we will be going over the process of correctly mounting an outboard engine at the right height
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and how to measure and set up the tie bars. We'll go into some other parts of the process as well so let's get into it
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For this video we will be removing 3,300 horsepower mercury verauses. and installing 3 350 horsepower verados
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This is a 34 foot yellow fin and we will get started by derrgging the engines
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For these varados we just disconnect the 14 pin harness here, push in this red tab and pull off the fuel line, disconnecting the can network cable
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the power steering wire, fuel sensor, and then power cables. Now with the rigging out we need to remove the tie bar and then we can take off the steering cylinder hoses
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This boat has a large starboard platform, built where a cooler can sit. We have to remove that and pull up the access plates so that
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we can get to the mounting bolts for the engines. Then with the engines ready for pulling
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we set up some tires where we could lay the old engines and now we can install the lifting
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eye onto the engine and get it hooked up to pull them off. Pulling the engines is pretty basic
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once we get to this point. We take out the four mounting bolts and work the engine off
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of the transom. This can get difficult because of the sealant that is behind the engine
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So we just work the engine back and forth until it releases and comes off
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Thank you I a boy Oh and With the engines off, it's usually the best time to clean off the transom
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Change out the rigging tubes and get everything set and ready for the new engines
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I like to drill out the old 5200 from the bolt holes so that the new bolts will slide in without giving us a huge hassle
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We'll uncrate the new engines and carefully read the engines and carefully roll. remove the cowling so that we can install a lifting eye. Then lift the engine all the way up
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and set it back down onto the crate so we can remove the crate. For these engines, once the crate
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is removed, we move the steering cylinder from the center motor over to the port engine. This
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saves us some time in the rigging department. Before putting on any sealant, you want to get
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the engine up and against the transoms so that we can set the engine height. There are a lot
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of rule of thumbs out there. Some say one inch lift for every foot back from the bottom
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of the hole. Others say half inch back for the foot. And some say you should use a water pressure
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to see when you lose water pressure as you move the engine up. Every hole is different, so what
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you really want to do is take a straight edge and you want the water coming off the bottom of the hole to run just over the water pickups
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So if you are three feet from the bottom of the hole, then you want the water pickups to be just under the top of your straight edge
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giving enough space for the water coming off of the hole to rise up and still stay under the cavitation plate
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The main thing that you don't want is for the water coming from the hole to go over the anti-cavitation plate
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which will suck the back of the boat down and slow the boat way down
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as well as affecting the right of the boat in a negative way. Once you have your mounting height correct
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then we can install the engine putting 3M-4200 on the engine bracket around the bolt holes
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Make sure your bolts are ready to push through the transom once the engine is in place
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It's also a nice trick to put a power pack on the engine so that we can trim the engine once we get close to the transom
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so that the bracket and the transom are on the same angle. This lets the bolts go in nicely and smoothly
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No hammering or messing up the threads. With the bolts through, we can put the nuts on and tighten them down
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You want them to be torqued down to at least 55 foot pounds
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I like to put the engines on, starting with the port engine, so that we can install the engine
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and completely rig it since the rigging is on the starboard side of the engine
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This saves us a ton of time and frustration being able to stand there and rig up the engine
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We'll go ahead and hook up the steering cylinders too, and it's important to check
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on these fittings to ensure that this little O-ring is inside the fitting before we put
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the steering hoses on. Once we have all three engines installed and rigged we can add and configure the tie bar The tie bar setup is pretty simple We want to have the engines towed in just a little so that the boat will track straight as it moves forward through the water We get our measurements to configure the tie bar by installing the tie bar brackets and one side of the tie bar
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Then we can measure the distance between the middle of each bracket. We do the same between the prop shafts
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We are looking to set up the tie bar to be about one quarter to one half inch farther apart than the prop shafts
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Then the prop shafts. So if the prop shafts are 26 inches apart, we want the tie bar to be about 26 and a quarter
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inches apart. This will tow the engines in just a little bit, allowing the weight coming from each engine
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to cross each other between 25 to 50 feet behind the boat
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This is the optimal position and setup to get the boat to track straightly through the water
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Now with the tie bar setup, we just check and top off the engine oil, the gear loop, and install
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the propellers. which means we are ready to configure the system, and then top off the steering system
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Put the boat in the water for a test drive and close out our day here for this week's Technicians Tuesday
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We hope you've enjoyed this quick video about how to properly mount an outboard engine
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If you have any questions about any part of this process, just ask us in the comment section below and feel free to suggest other topics that you would like us
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us to cover. Make sure and hit the thumbs up button and if you're new get subscribe to the channel
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so you can keep up with our technicians Tuesday series where we give out all kinds of helpful
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how-to, DIY boating hints, tips and outboard service tricks. Remember we can always be reached
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on our website at born againboating.com and we can't wait to see you next week
