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Under Your Boat's Floor! Bulkheads & Bilge Paint!
Aug 16, 2024
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View Video Transcript
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What's up everybody
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Welcome to this week's Technicians Tuesday. Last week we got the Cusa installed and glassed up
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Now today we will be installing the bulkhead, fairing out the bilge, building and installing
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the deck supports as well as painting the bilge and installing the floor into the back of the boat
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We've got a lot to cover today and if this is your first Tuesday here with us, consider hitting
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that subscribe button and getting that notification bell on so that you can join us every Tuesday
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to learn more about your boat and how it works. Now let's get started
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We'll begin with getting the bulkhead built by using a piece left over from when we fix
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the deck access panel. Now this isn't like building fine cabinetry here, we have three main goals for our bulkhead
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We want to separate the builds from the fuel tank compartment, support the deck, and strengthen
0:47
the stringers. So we just cut our piece down to the right width that will fit snugly in between the stringers
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to strengthen them up. Then we can cut down some angles on the sides to shape the piece to the bottom of the boat and
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make the height of the bulkhead to come up just to the bottom of the floor. Then we can dry
1:03
fit the piece into place and make sure that it will fit the way we want it too. We will then move on
1:08
to building up some supports to go under the back of our deck access panel next. For this
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we'll just take some more of the leftover plywood and cut it down into six pieces. I marked the
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piece for three inch pieces but decided to go a little bit bigger just to use up more of the wood
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and leave less scrap. By putting three of these pieces together, we'll build up supports on each side of the tops
1:35
of the stringers in the back to support the deck. We'll take some long screws and screw the pieces together, then screw them to the stringer
1:42
so that when it comes time to glass them in, we'll be prepped and ready to go
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Looking at these supports in hindsight though, we should have ran them back a little further
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in order to add some support for the back floor section after we cut the bilge access panel in
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That's all right though, we can always add more support there. later if we need to. Which is also the whole point of this channel, to give everybody the confidence
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and general know-how to work on their own boat and keep it going for a little less money
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That way we can all enjoy spending more time out on the water. So hit that like button for getting
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to see all the hindsight of DIYing a project boat. And with the supports built and ready
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it's time to get into preparing out our fiberglass. For the supports, we'll be using some of our scrap pieces of mat that we have left over. We just
2:29
need to cut the pieces up to bond the blocks together. We'll put the mat in between the
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stringer and the first piece of the block as well as in between each piece of wood making
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up our support Then for our bulkhead we will be using that 24 ounce woven roving to cover that and give the piece some strength Now a little side note about this 24 woven this is an extremely thick and heavy piece of fiberglass which is what makes it probably the strongest piece of glass that you can
2:56
use. With that being said, this takes a ton of resin to wet out and to completely saturate it
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with resin. Sometimes that can be hard to do, and I'm no Andy. That guy is the king of glass
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and if you don't know who he is, then you need to go and search for boatworks today
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then subscribe to his channel for any and all things fiberglass. We'll cut the glass to fit just a little bit bigger for the inside part of the bulkhead
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Then on the build side of the piece, we want to cut it large enough to have tabs that will cover a good section of the stringers
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as well as wrap down into the builds just a little bit to completely seal this build side of the bulkhead off
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And now that we have all the glass cut and ready, we can get set up to start mixing up our resin and glassing everything into place
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We'll suit up with our gloves and then mix up our resin. We want to wet out the wood first, then we'll set our inside piece of glass onto the wood
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Pour on some resin and start pushing the resin around until we've saturated the glass the best that we can
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Then we can stick the panel into place and get it set right where we want it to be
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Once it's in place, we'll wet it out and mix up some silica into the resin that we have left over and fill in all the gaps around the piece with a putty knife
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Once the gaps are filled in, we can roll on our inside piece of glass and begin to load it up with resin
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Getting our side tabs to lay against the stringers as well as the hull of the boat
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once we've got the bulkhead done, we'll wet out the stringers where our support's
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are going to go and add the mat against the stringer and wet the mat out
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Then we'll just take our support and wet out each piece individually and add the mat in between
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until we have the whole piece soaked and stuck together. Then we can screw the piece together and screw it into the stringer
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We'll go ahead and wrap some scrap pieces of glass over the top of the bulkhead and wet those
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completely out. Before calling it a night though, we'll mix up some silica and use the
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that to just cover or fare out the sections where the old live well bulkhead was, as well
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as the old screw holes that are on the pads where the bilge pump and float switches screw down to
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The next day we'll give the bilge a quick sanding and then clean it out with some acetone
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in a rag. This way we can cover the bilge with some white bilge coat paint just to brighten it
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up and make it look a little more presentable The floor piece on the other hand that was a little trickier we had to stick the deck panel down so that we could get our measurements correct then we cut out our piece of wood down to about the correct width Then we measured the depth of the piece
5:44
and cut that down to size. We measured out the angle to one side of the piece and cut
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that portion off so that we could get the exact angle of the opposite side and cut that
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down as well. Once it was cut we could dry fit the piece and knock down anything that was holding
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it up. The next thing we need to do is to cut out some supports for both of the sides and the back
6:11
The support in the back is going to rest directly on the stringers, and since we didn't have a long enough piece of wood left over to double it up
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we just cut two spacer pieces to push the support out a little bit to give the floor a solid support in the back
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We had to notch out the spacers, the support piece, and the floor to get everything to fit
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together and level with the existing floor. But with the back supported and our floor
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fitting in nicely now, we just need to add the side supports and we can start prepping
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the fiberglass. For the sides we just use some more square scrap pieces of plywood
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We screwed those pieces up to the bottom of the existing deck. This way we had them
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pre-drilled and now we are almost ready to start fiberglassing. Before cutting in a glass
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though, we'll go ahead and run 5200 around the edge of our fuel tank access panel and set
7:00
that piece down into place. Then once that is screwed down into place, we can begin cutting the pieces of mat to go on the
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side pieces, then the mat that will go onto the support pieces in the back
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Then we'll cut our section of woven to go onto the bottom of the piece, and we are ready
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to start mixing up some resin and putting all these pieces together. We'll start by wetting out our floor section and getting the woven and the mat down
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onto that piece so that it can kick off a little bit before we stick it down into place
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Then we'll move on to putting the back support pieces in by wetting them out and getting the
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mat down into place. Once those pieces are in place, we can wet out, mat out, and screw in our side supports on the sides
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Then after they are in place, we can set the floor section down into place and we'll then
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screw this piece down into place and let it set overnight to cure up
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The next day we started out by taking smaller pieces of glass from our Transom cut out
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and we'll use these as backing pieces to straighten out the sides of the gunnels here
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We just cut those down to fit into the sections here and screwed them into place
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Now we can start cutting up pieces of mat and woven to go over both the sides and the floor
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We start with the small side pieces and just cut a piece of mat and a piece of woven to cover each of these sides Then we move on to cutting up a piece of woven to fit across the floor which we want to tab up a little bit onto the gunnels and the transom
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We'll also cut a piece of woven that will fit down into the floor section
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to bring it up to the same level as the existing glass, and to add some more strength to the new floor piece
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All that's left now before glassing this all in place is to cut out the mat that will cover over the woven once that's on the floor
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And now we are ready to begin glassing everything into place. We'll start by glassing up the side sections and getting them into place
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We'll wet out the piece and then lay the mat on and screw that into place
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Once that's in place we can place the woven piece on top of it and get that glassed up
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We'll do the same thing on the other side and then we'll take some acetone and really
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wipe down the transom section. The acetone will tack up the resin of the fiberglass to allow the new resin
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that we put on today to stick to it. This only works if it's done only a day or two after the glass is just put on
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If you wait too many days or weeks, the resin won't tack up and you'll have to sand it to get any new resin to stick to it
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We can then mix up some silica that we can push into all the edges around the floor section
9:36
to fill in any gaps or broken sections of the existing fiberglass in the flooring
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Remember to be quick while doing all of this or else you will find that your resin is kicked off and will gum up while you are
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spreading it out and once that happens you'll have to scrape it all off like this
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when it does but after cleaning that off we'll push the silica mix into all the
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gaps and we'll roll out some fresh resin across the deck then we can lay down
10:01
our bottom pieces of woven onto the floor and pour out some more resin onto the
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glass and work it around the pieces once we've got the pieces saturated
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we can lay down the second layer of woven wrapping the pieces up the transom and
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gunnels a few inches, then continue pouring resin onto the pieces until they are completely saturated
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with resin and we get as much air out of the pieces as possible. Obviously it's best to get all
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the air out, but fiberglass takes a lot of practice to get it down. So if you're like me and you're
10:34
just thankful to be able to get through the process, then don't worry too much about having a
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couple of sections that aren't perfect. Before laying out our last piece of mat down, I want to
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encourage anyone that has just found our channel to get subscribed and visit us on our website
10:49
at born again boating.com. Then we'll lay down our last piece of mat and continue rolling out more
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and more resin until we've got the floor completely saturated. Next week we'll be faring out
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the transom including the inside before shooting everything with gel coat. Thank you for hanging out
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with us today and we look forward to seeing you next week
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