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Here we've got a little 40 horse carbureted four stroke and when you go to accelerate
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the engine just dies. You can restart it right back up but if you put the throttle down it falls flat on its face
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and dies out. There are a couple of reasons why this could be happening and we've got two other videos that you
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should see after we fix this boat. The first one is why small outboards won't run, which
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is right in line with what we've got going on with this boat. And the second one is on the building
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of this type of boat, which is a bully netter, and that's just because these are a really fun setup
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Now the first thing that you might see when something like this is happening is that the engine
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is probably dumping fuel into the water, giving you a visual sheen on top of the water
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because what is happening is that the carbs on the engine are flooding out the cylinders
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fouling out the spark plugs and killing the engine. A lot of people will try and run power tune, engine tuner, quick clean, ring free, yick
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seafone, or other products through the engine to try and clean out the carbs and the fuel system
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without having to disassemble the carburetors. But in my experience, though that does work sometimes, really it only works a handful of those
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times, which is why I generally just start off going directly to the source of the issue
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and pulling the carbs off the engine to put them on the bench and disassemble them to give them a real cleaning
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You'll find that most of these little engine carburetor assemblies all come off as just that, an assembly
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with the intake or the airbox still connected to the assembly. It's actually easier to take them off with the intake on the carbs than it is to try and take the airbox off while it's still on the engine
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Once you get the thing to the workbench though, you can go ahead and pull the airbag
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airbox off I like to have a good area to work in where you can spread the assemble layout as you pull it apart So you can lay it out the way that it is coming apart as you disassemble it For this setup everything is really just dirty and rusty You find
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that the carbs are usually held together with a couple of brackets, some hoses, and usually
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a linkage that links all the throttle plates together. You mainly just want to pull each
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carb apart separately and fully disassemble them so that you can clean out each and every
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passage and jet that's in the carb. which is the most important part about cleaning a carburetor
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Make sure that every jet in passage is clean. A lot of people will only pull the carb halfway apart
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which will leave some small passage somewhere, usually an air passage with a blockage
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that keeps the thing from operating properly. You also want to make sure that the float in the carb is set right
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which is basically just level with the body of the carburetor. Make sure that the needle isn't warped or damaged
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and still has a nice, clean, pointy tip on the end of it. And also look at things like this enrichner here
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This is what is called an electrothermal valve or enrichner. Simply, this just has a needle on the end of it, and once electricity is supplied to it
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it will change the distance of the needle, usually shutting off a fuel supply to the carbs
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because these are generally used for cold starts where they will supply that enriching fuel
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when the engine is cold to help it start and run. Then once the engine is running, it will shut off
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If they fail, they can make the engine run rich. That's not our problem here today
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Outside of that though, you can check out that other video that we talked about earlier
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where we go a lot more in-depth into the carb system and issues with small engines
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But for now, we'll just clean these carbs out and put them all back together so that we
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can put them on the boat and talk about another issue that this engine is having, being an issue
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with the sink and link, which is the adjustment between the carbs and the idle speed of the engine
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On a side note though, whenever you have issues with carbs like this, especially
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when they are flooding out the cylinders you going to need to change out the plugs because when the engine is having to deal with a running issue it generally mess up the plugs and in this case completely foul them out You think that they would be cleaner because the fuel would be whitewashing the plugs
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but because of how bad it throws everything off, it'll foul them out like this
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So once we get another set of plugs in the engine, we can make sure and put another plug in here being a reminder plug
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that we've got your Born Again Boating shirts on sale right now for Labor Day
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until the end of the week at born again boating.com slash shop
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or you can get your BAB tumblers from the merch shelf below the video. Now we can move on to being able to perform the syncing link on the engine
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For this, we've got to pull out the plugs from the side of the intake manifold here
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that's directly behind the carbs. Then we'll use these little hoses that come with our vacuumate tool here
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and just screw these into the manifold where we took those plugs out from
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They've got an O ring on the bottom of them, so we just need to seat the O ring against
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the manifold and that will seal it up. Then we'll take this thing here that is called the vacuumate
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And with that hooked up to the hoses and connected to a power supply, we can measure and monitor
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the vacuum in the manifold, which will let us know how to set the adjustment screws on the
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carb in order to sink them all together. Our goal is to get these cylinders to all be pretty much in line with each other like this
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Sometimes you can get them to be pretty much perfect, but usually there will be a little variance between them
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You can also measure the RPM of the engine with this tool as well by flipping the switch
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over to RPM These can get a little finicky when you trying to set them though
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Depending on whether the enrichiner is open or closed, you might have to clamp off the
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hoses coming from the enrichment to set them properly so that you can isolate the
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carbs and make sure the enrichment isn't altering your reading. But the top two carbs are really the ones that you can adjust
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Then this third screw down here will change all three of the readings, so you kind of mess with
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the top two to level things out and bring the third one in to make sure you keep the idle speed
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at the correct RPM, which is usually around 1,000 RPM, depending on the engine you are
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messing with. Once you get the
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set the way that they should be, everything should be running pretty smoothly
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You might notice that this engine here has quite a shake to it while it's in gear though
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But that shake is probably due to the fact that the props got an ear on it that's all mangled
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out and bent with a crack in it. That usually causes an engine to shake when it's in gear
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But once you've got the Sinking Link done, or hopefully you don't even have to perform
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the Sinkin Link and you'll be able to simply take the boat out for a test drive to find
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out that the things like a little rocket ship once again and they're all good
