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Mercury V8 Outboard Service | 100 Hour | Water Pump
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Aug 16, 2024
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View Video Transcript
0:00
Hello everybody, it's Technicians Tuesday and this week we're back with another service video
0:06
Today we will be getting into Mercury's new V8 4-stroke engine. Now the V8 and the V6 service procedure is basically the same but today we will be working on the V8 so let's get started
0:18
Like all outboard services we'll start by tilting the engine up to get the oil to drain out of the heads and will drain the oil
0:27
These engines have a drain here on the starboard side of the engine and we'll use a 5 eighth inch hose and a 5 eighth inch wrench to crack open the drain
0:35
Then just stick the hose on and unscrew the drain until it is draining into a bucket
0:40
With that draining we can pop off the cowlings and then change out this fuel filter that is here in the back of the engine
0:47
First thing we want to do is get this 14 pin harness out of the way and disconnect the water sensor from the filter
0:53
Then there are two quick connects that come off when you push you push you. in on the red tab and then pull the hose off. The filter has a little tab on the end of it so
1:11
we just turn the filter clockwise and then pull it out. Push the new one in and lock it
1:17
into place. Hook up the water sensor and push the hoses back on until they click. We'll
1:24
change out the spark plugs next. The plug wires like to stick onto the plugs so it's easier to grab them with a pair of
1:31
plug wire pliers here on the back and then twist them off then these plugs are a
1:36
little different than normal because they are a smaller plug than most engines
1:40
this plug requires a 14 millimeter socket to get them out but it's pretty
1:45
basic we'll pull them out and put the new ones back in next up on the list are
1:51
the thermostats that are located here on the top of the engine these are super simple they only have the two 8mm bolts holding them on and they come just like most of the new mercury thermostats come with the entire housing and everything
2:05
We'll just grease up the o-ring on the new one and turn it back and forth until it fits down into its spot and we'll tighten up the bolts
2:12
Before doing the oil filters, we need to tighten up the oil drain plugs and pull the hoses off so that we can use one of them for the drain to the oil filter pan
2:25
There is this yellow plug on the poured side of the engine under the oil filter
2:29
Just pull that plug out and we can stick the hose on there
2:33
Depending if someone has changed this filter before you and didn't pull the plug, there
2:37
might be oil that will leak out. The oil filter itself is really accessible and we'll just take an oil filter wrench
2:43
and screw it off. Then clean up the surface and put some grease or clean oil on the gasket to the new
2:49
filter and tighten it down. Once the oil pan is done draining, just remove the hose and stick the yellow
2:55
plug back in. Now this brings us to the most difficult service item on this engine, the
3:01
alternator belt. To get to this belt we have to loosen this hose clamp on the
3:05
front of the air intake and then push it up. Pull out the dipstick and then pull up from
3:14
the back of the intake until it comes up. Then remove this hose here and we can pull
3:19
the intake off. This is where it gets interesting. We can swing the dipstick tube over like this, and then we have to pull the two 8mm bolts holding the oil fill tube onto the top of the engine
3:33
With those out, we can move the fill to the back of the engine and out of the way
3:38
There are then four 10mm bolts holding the plastic bracket on, and with those out, we can pull the bracket off
3:46
There are two special tools that Mercury has made to help change the belt
3:50
There's this little piece that slides in under the belt back here, and then we have another
3:55
tool that sets into the flywheel where we can take a one and one eighths inch socket to turn the flywheel working that piece under the belt to pop it off
4:06
I use an old knife to help and pry the belt up onto the top of the flywheel as the Dad
4:11
Wheel turns around until the belt comes completely off of the flywheel
4:15
With that off we still have to remove the alternator that is held on by four more 10mm
4:20
bolts, then we can pull the alternator up and remove the old belt and install the new belt
4:26
Tighten all of the bolts back down and we will work the belt onto the flywheel by pressing
4:30
it down and continuing to turn the flywheel. Once the belt has slipped down onto the flywheel, keep turning it until the belt works its
4:38
way into the grooves on the alternator and we'll be riding smoothly
4:45
We'll torque the alternator bolts and then reinstall the plastic bracket on the top
4:50
down the oil fill again and turn the dipstick tube back over into its little spot on the
4:55
bracket. We can reinstall the air intake and move onto pulling the lower units to change out
5:00
the water pumps. Something else that is nice about these engines is that you no longer have
5:06
to drain the oil in order to pull the lower unit. Also, we don't have to remove the anode to
5:11
get to the nut under the anti-cavitation plate. There are only five, three-quarter inch nuts holding
5:17
the lower units on and after we pull those out, we can can just pull the lower units down and off. These lower units are extremely similar to the
5:25
standard Verado Gearcase. There are two 10mm bolts for the drain and vent plugs here behind the
5:31
prop. Then we've got the normal four 10mm bolts holding the water pump housing on. I'll put a link
5:37
in the description to another Verado Gearcase service video so you can see a more close-up service on
5:43
a gear case. But the biggest difference here is that this shift shaft has more of a point on it
5:49
rather than splines and the water pump housing sits on this plate here
5:53
This shift shaft will be important to remember when we put the case back on in just a minute The water pump housing goes on like usual I like to use the alignment pins and we just slide the water pump gasket and plate and rubber gasket on
6:08
Grease up the drive shaft and push the keyway on and slide the impeller down into place
6:13
Then we'll turn the drive shaft clockwise while pushing down in the housing until it seats
6:17
down and we can grease up the bolts and tighten the housing down
6:21
the gear case up and we can put them back onto the engine
6:25
We'll grease up the studs and then with the lower unit in gear we can slide it up into
6:30
the midsection and turn the prop shaft to turn the drive shaft until we feel it go up into
6:35
the powerhead. Now this is something else that is really cool, that pointed shift shaft fits up into this
6:41
slot here and even when the lower unit is in gear, once it runs up into the coupler, it
6:47
automatically turns the gear case shift shaft into neutral. So no matter what gear we put the lower unit on in, it will automatically go into neutral
6:56
which makes installing the lower unit way easier. We can tighten up the nuts for the lower unit and reinstall the propellers
7:03
It's important not to forget to change out the boat fuel filters, and that is going to complete
7:08
our full service on these new Mercury V8 four-stroke engines. If you found this video interesting, or if it helped you through a service, why not give
7:17
it a thumbs up and then make sure you are subscribed to the channel so that you are you
7:21
you can easily access our growing library of resources with over 100 videos and articles
7:27
on our website at born again boating.com where we have new content coming out every week covering
7:33
all kinds of easy to follow how to and DIY outboard service and boat repair tutorials
7:40
We'd love to hear from you in the comments section below and we look forward to seeing you
7:44
back here next week for another technician's Tuesday video. Enjoy your Tuesday night and we'll see you next week
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