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Outboard Control Cable Installation!
Aug 16, 2024
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View Video Transcript
0:00
What's up guys, welcome to Technicians Tuesday
0:03
Today we are going to be changing out a set of mechanical control cables on a twin engine boat
0:08
This process is basically the same for all engine manufacturers with only the differences
0:13
and control boxes and how the cables hook up to and mount to the engine
0:18
Now let's get started. We want to start out by troubleshooting the issue and making sure that it's the cables that
0:24
need to be changed. We do this by simply pulling out this pin here and removing the cable from the shift mechanism
0:29
and seeing if we can move the cable. This one was pretty obvious because we could push the whole cable back into itself
0:36
Then you can also start the engine and manually shift the engine by hand to make sure the engine isn't the problem
0:42
This one here was pretty clear though. Where we can see the cable, it's all rusted up and busted open
0:48
So the next thing we need to do is figure out how long the control cables are
0:52
They will usually have the length stamped into the cable. Now hopefully whoever put them in was thoughtful and kind enough to make sure that the control
0:59
the information was left on the control box end of the cable and not the engine side
1:05
where it would be in the rigging tube and we'd have to pull it out to see the numbers
1:09
Luckily for us, that wasn't the case. The numbers were right here in the open
1:13
This boat had a set of 24 foot and 28 foot cables. Now some manufacturers don't print out the actual foot on the cable
1:21
Some put it in inches, so you just find the number on the cable and then divide it by 12 to get the length of the cable
1:27
Now we can cut out some zip ties and pull out the control box
1:32
We'll start by pulling out this rubber piece here and removing the two screws holding the cover on
1:37
Then the cover just lifts up from the back here and pulls right off
1:44
You'll find four screws or bolts on each corner holding the control box in place
1:48
Just remove those and we can pull the box out so we can split it apart
1:52
There are three bolts holding the two control boxes together, one here and one on the opposite side
1:57
in the front and then this one down here on the bottom We pull those out and the two boxes will split apart Just flip the boxes over so we can get to the backs of them and we pull out the two screws holding the black cover on Single engine control boxes usually have five screws holding them on but they all just pull off like this once you get the screws out
2:17
You'll find these two clips holding the Shipped and Throttle cables on
2:21
Carefully using the screwdriver, work the clips off so we can remove the cable from the lever
2:30
Sometimes you have to pry the cable out of the bottom here to get it out
2:35
Then we want to unscrew the ends from the cable and put them to the side because we will
2:40
reuse them later. While we're here though, I want to point out how this neutral safety switch works
2:46
If you notice when we opened up the box, the switches had gotten pulled from where they belong
2:51
So we put them back the way they were supposed to go. And they just slide into this little groove here
2:56
This way when you shift it into neutral, it depresses and lets the engine know the control box
3:00
is in neutral. Then we want to wrap the wire around this post here to keep it from pulling the switch out
3:06
Now once the first box is done, we just have to do the same thing with the other box, and
3:11
we'll be ready to derig the cables at the engines and then pull them out
3:15
For these Yamahs, sometimes you can get the cables through without having to derig the engine
3:20
Just pull this rubber grummit off and then there are two 10 millimeter bolts that hold this
3:24
little metal piece on. Take those out and pull that piece off
3:28
Now we can see the busted cable and flip this black piece up and pry the cable out
3:35
We want to remove these ends from the cables just like we did for the ones that were in the control box
3:41
Now we'll take out these two 10mm bolts here and that will allow us to free up the shift cable and pull the rigging grommet up
3:48
so that we will be able to pull the cables out through the rigging tube
3:52
Before pulling on the cables though, we need to go through the boat and pull open some hatches to cut out any zip ties that would hold us up
3:59
Sometimes you have to pull out walls like this to get in here and get to the cables
4:04
Remember that it only takes one zip tie to make the whole job turn into a nightmare With all the zip ties out and the cables ready to pull we get to one of the crucial parts of the job We want to pull the cables out and pull the new cables in as we do
4:26
To be the most efficient as we can be, the trick here is to take the rubber pieces off of the cables and then place the nuts and the grooves of the opposite cable and zip tie them together with three zip ties
4:38
Then take some electrical tape and cover up the whole bundle so it's nice and smooth
4:42
Also don't forget to put the part number side of the cable at the end. end and attach the engine side of the cable to the old cable. That way when we pull the cables
4:51
through, the identification side of the cable is at the helm for the next guy that's got to
4:56
change them out. I also like to put red and green tape on the cables just to identify them
5:02
With all of the cables attached and taped up, it's time to start pulling. This is always easiest
5:07
if you have someone else to help pull. That way, someone can feed the cable and the other person
5:12
can pull on the cable and it makes the job go twice as fast. We'll simply pull the cables through one at a time and get them back to the transom
5:20
Once we get them at the transom, we'll do the same thing and pull the cables out through the rigging tube to the engine
5:27
And now we can put everything back together. We want to start with the control box so that we get the cable adjustment correct
5:33
Feed the cable up to the box and then we'll stick the cable ends back on
5:37
I like to put molly lube on the cables and then push the rubber covers down
5:41
then put the end on until you can see the cable in the middle of the little opening on the end
5:46
Then just tighten up the nut to the end and we can install them into the control box
5:53
We'll put the first cable in and place it onto the post it goes on
5:57
Take the surclip and press it into the grooves to hold the cable in place
6:06
Put this little black spacer in and put the second cable in and push it onto the post and put the clip on
6:16
That it Put the black cover on and then tighten up the screws Now just put the two boxes back together and tighten up the three bolts Slide the box back down into its spot and then place the wires going to the cover into this groove in the middle before pushing it all the way down and tightening up the bolts
6:41
We'll push the cover back on and insert the two bolts that hold it down
6:45
You will notice that there are two other little bolts with flatheads on them
6:49
These are for tightening and loosening the friction of the throttle. So if you are running at cruising speed and the throttles like to creep back and cause you to
6:56
lose RPM, just tighten these bolts up a little bit and that will help to hold the throttles
7:01
in place better. Don't forget to push that little rubber piece back in. Now back at the engine
7:07
this is where the cable adjustment is made. We first want to clean off the adhesive left from the
7:12
electrical tape and then grease up the cables and put the rubber covers back on. Then we can
7:17
screw the ends onto the cable and place the cable back into place and tighten down the bracket
7:22
that holds the cable in place. With the cable in place and tighten down, we want to engage. We want to
7:26
ensure that the shift mechanism is in neutral and adjust the end on the cable so that it slides down
7:32
onto the pin without having to move the pin. Once that position is found, we can tighten up the nut to the end that's on the cable
7:39
and place the cable onto the shift mechanism and push the clip back into the pin
7:44
The same thing applies to our throttle cable. We'll stick it into the bracket and then adjust the end so that it slides smoothly onto
7:50
the stud that controls the throttle. We'll tighten up the nut and place the pin in so that the cable doesn't come off
7:56
Then we can put the rigging grommet back in place and insert the section of the engine pan back in place and stick the gasket back on
8:04
And that is going to close out our day here on this week's Technicians Tuesday
8:08
If this video helps you out with your control cables, give the video thumbs up
8:12
And if you haven't joined the Tuesday crew yet, subscribe to the channel where we complete all kinds of outboard and boating repairs
8:19
We'd love to hear about your experience in the comments section below if you've ever had to change out your control cables
8:25
or you can also reach us on our website at born againboating.com
8:29
Enjoy your Tuesday night and we look forward to seeing you back here next week
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