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This is a $700 OEM fuel pump and this is a $36 aftermarket fuel pump that I got from Amazon
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But let me show you how I ended up spending over $900 on this specific pump
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You see this started out as a standard operation. The engine didn't run so we checked the fuel pressure, no fuel pressure, pulled the VST and opened her up to take Luxey and found a locked up rusted pump
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No surprise here or with the price of the new OEM pump. I mean seven hundies still seems a little steep
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I don't think you have the facilities for that big man. But that's not uncommon, and we've done this multiple times before
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Some of you may even remember the 300 HPDI we had, which had the same issue
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We ended up buying this Axiom pump from Amazon for $78 because the OEM pump was $806
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and then that engine actually went to Cuba and back. So we're not new to the aftermarket parts world, in reality
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by and large, outside of this $36 pump costing us over $900
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the dangerous risk of using aftermarket parts is relatively small. Usually there are two reasons we buy aftermarket parts
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Either they are much cheaper and we try to save some of that money or they are for performance
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And we're trying to maximize a specific function of the engine and this is usually more expensive
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We could also probably throw in availability here too. And that's just a more recent issue in the last couple of years where the OEM parts aren't available
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So sometimes we got to take what we can get where we can get it. Now we not going to talk about the performance aspect of aftermarket parts because risk and dangerous aren really a concern when you are consciously trying to alter the functionality of an engine to squeeze out some more performance allowing us to stay on our main topic and leaving us with the first reason which is the cheaper price
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Now there are only a few ways to make a component cheaper. You are either mass producing it or using cheaper components, or as in some cases, an OEM will stop producing a part
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because they no longer make that engine, model, or whatever. They will then sell off the tools, drawings, specifications, and that type of stuff to an aftermarket company
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making the parts still available for that product. But this is a much smaller industry for the boating world compared to the automotive world
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So that's not the case as often here, and it's more common for the same company that makes the same type of part
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for multiple different manufacturers to sell their own off-branded product, but it's pretty much the same thing
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Bringing us back to the cheapest, most expensive fuel pump that we've ever dealt with
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because this product falls in the cheaper components category of why it's so cheap
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Now, when you are talking about aftermarket filters, things like water separators, fuel filters, oil filters, and stuff like that
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these are going to be less dangerous because they will usually fall in the cheaper materials category
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as well as the mass production category. This means they don't last as long, they will probably fall apart quicker, and the filtration
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isn't as good, but are they dangerous to your wallet or your engine? Generally, no
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Is it possible they could have a long-term effect on the longevity and life expectancy
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of the engine? Maybe. But that debate can happen in the comments
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Because in the situation with our fuel pump that starts out at just under we need to look at the specifications of our pump compared to the OEM pump where the issue really begins because the OEM pump only draws like two two and half amps whereas our aftermarket pump that thing draws like five five and a half amps
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And the real crux of the matter is that the power being fed to the pump runs through a $1,200
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ECU or computer. And it doesn't take an electrician to figure out that double the amp draw of the OEM pump is not
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going to be a good thing for the computer. up happening in this situation, which we will show you what we did to get around the issue
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is that the $40 fuel pump ends up burning up a $1,200 ECU
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Basically, we're going to take this relay, put the control wires coming from the
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ECU to control the relay and run the relay off the power and ground of the boat
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we use a battery we don't ever use pull start or no battery in the system this is how we're
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going to hook this thing up this is going to have a fuse on it right here and that fuse
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is going to go to our power stud here and then this wire is going to be our signal wire for
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the actual fuel pump so that we're going to cut this and this going to go to the fuel pump
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and then the fuel pump's going to come out and go to the ground. Now, these two are going to be our signal wires
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So whenever the ECM we going to have you know power signal in and ground out these will go here whenever the ECU tells these two to turn on it gonna click this relay
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which is gonna let the power from here flow through the relay to the pump turn the
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pump on and then you know go to ground so I'm gonna test this real quick just by
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putting this to ground that to power the relay should click and we should have
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continuity between the these two leads right here touching it boom and we got
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continuity straight through there so our signal relays off no continuity relays on continuity now on this plug we've got this blue right here that's got
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like a stripe on it kind of thing and then we got another blue with a black stripe on it
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so the black stripe is going to be our ground and the other one's going to be our positive
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so that's just something that we need to know when we go to hook up our relay which we have
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ready right here And this is going to be the unfortunate end of this video because here is the second camera in recent history that just turns white and ruins the footage
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So that's the end of the video
