What Is The World's FASTEST Boat?

So you want to know what the world's fastest boat is, and it's actually going to be pretty surprising to you if you didn't know this, because one of them is actually made out of wood, and they are older boats

They're not newer boats like you would think of with these newer boats, with all the technology and all the stuff

So it's actually very surprising. Now, before we get started, though, I want to thank our show's sponsor, Partsview.com

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The world's fastest boat is actually pretty surprising because it is actually a wooden speed

boat built in Sydney, Australia, in the backyard of a man named Ken Warby

which got the world's speed record on water in 1978. The boat's name is called the Spirit of Australia, and it is a hydroplaining boat

Now, it's interesting because the official record was 317 miles an hour, and it had a peak speed of 345 miles an hour

Mind you, this is a wooden boat back in 1978. This is not, you know, this is 40 years ago

This isn't these new fiberglass really encapsulated and safely built boats that we have today

this is a wooden boat in the backyard of Ken Warby. Now, the engine that he had on the boat is a jet engine taken from a Fiat G91 jet fighter plane

so it's a jet engine, and the engine is called a Bristol-Cidoli Orpheus jet engine

which is a Westinghouse J-34, which did produce from 3,000 pounds of thrust to 4,900 pounds of thrust

depending on the year and the model and which one you had. The one that he used was a Bristol and had about 5,000 pounds of thrust, so it must have been a newer model

Now, in order to get horsepower from thrust, we do need to do some converting, which can be depending on what you're using for your numbers

So as far as the 5,000 pounds of force or thrust, we have to calculate that off of speed

And if we take the speed of the boat and we do 340 miles an hour out of 5,000 pounds of thrust, that gives us a horsepower of 4,000.000

4,600 horsepower, which is insane. But if we calculated off of the plane speed, which this jet engine in a plane would do 655 miles an hour, and do that, that would give us a horsepower of 8,733

Either way, that is a lot of horsepower. Now, before Ken Warby got this speed record, earlier, there was another boat called the Bluebird K-7

This was the fastest boat in the world from 1955 to 1960

until the spirit of Australia came in with Ken Warby. This was also a hydroplane ran by Donald Campbell

that unfortunately he also ended up passing away in 1967, trying to beat the records that he had set previously between 1955 and 1967

But this boat had a top speed of 276 miles per hour or 444 kilometers per hour

Its engine was also a jet engine taken from a plane and was also a Bristol-Cidoli Orpheus

The engine is called a Metropolitan Vickers Barrel axial flow turbojet engine

Pretty fancy, I know. Horsepower, again, keep in mind we had to do some converting to get the horsepower of the engine

but it had a thrust of 3,500 pounds of force, and it would be calculated at a horsepower rating of 2,576 horsepower

based on the 276 miles per hour and the 3,500 pounds of force

Now, as far as the world's fastest boats are the fastest speedboats of today

these are going to be the boats that are used in the power boats or the boat races

The boat races are going to be a little bit step above your recreational, which we do have a list of recreational speedboats as well

but these are going to be the speedboats. These are your power cats, your power boats

These are going to be the P1 and P1 offshore. the class one type race boats, which they also break down even further than that in different

classes based on outboards, weight, horsepower, different stuff like that. But these boats are

going to be your skaters, your MTIs, your victories, your mystics, the outer limits, your motions

These are all going to be those power cats and the class one speed boats. The top speed is going

to be depending on the different classes of whether or not you're going down into the

outboard class or you're running the power cats. But depending on that class, the speeds of the

boats are going to range from 115 to 130 for the lower class, the outboard, stuff like that

and then all the way up into the 160 to 180 mile an hour range for the power cat, your class one

your P1 powerboat races. Though most of the boats will get into the upper 190s and even the lower

200 mile per hour range for the top speed of the boat

it's being the MTIs, the motions, the outer limits, the victories, the mystiques

um, victories, all those. Most of the engines in the upper tier, the class one, the P1 are going to be inboards

They're race engines, a lot of 1150s, 1350s, Mer cruisers. They're inboards with outdrives

And the horsepowers are going to range from 450 all the way up to 1350

For some reason, I keep thinking that there's an engine that is a 1550 or a 1650

or something like that, but I think I'm wrong on that. I don't know why I always think that there was a 1450 or 1550 or something from

Merkruiser or Mercury Racing. I think it was an 1150 to the 1350

So not sure why I always think that, but that's stuck in my mind from somewhere

But then we have the world's fastest recreational boats. Now, these are a little bit different because these are where we get into the popular

sandbar boats or poker run boats, the boats that people are taking

trips to the Bahamas. They're making long runs, Lake of the Ozarks, stuff like that, but you're

more recreational. People are using them to run around in. These boats are not your power cats where

you're not going to put a power cat on your lake and just run up and down the lake in your power

cat because they're built for racing. These are built for speed and your go fast boats that you

want to put all your friends on and run around the lake. Now these are going to be your donzies

your Nortex, your cigarettes, the Midnight Express. um your formulas those are going to be more of this type of boat most of them are going to run in the 70

mile an hour to 90 mile an hour range those some of them will get up into the hundreds depending on

the boat and the layout the model the engine package and again most of them are going to be

inboard outboard or they're going to be running outboards nowadays most of them are running outboards

you got a lot of northex midnight express formulas donzies cigarettes, all those are the ones that have four, five, six, four hundred fifty horsepower

outboards on the back of the boat. Those are going to be more about your recreational style

As far as the world's largest outboard, as far as horsepower is concerned, it is still

as of today, going to be seven Marines, 627 horsepower outboard, which they're no longer in

business anymore. Volvo shut that down, but it did have 627 horsepower, though Mercury now has

the 600. But 627 is the top line of today as far as the amount of horsepower produced by an outboard

And those came in about 90 to 100 grand when they came out. And a bonus, we do have the fastest electric boat so far is Princeton University's Big Bird

And this electric boat broke the record and now holds it at 114 miles an hour

So that is the best that we have for the electrics. I want to say I calculated that down to 182 horsepower based on how

how you can convert an electric engine to horsepower because it's totally different

But that is about what we have. The engine for Big Bird was an electric outboard that was co-developed with Flux Marine

Flux Marine is an electronic outboard manufacturer And those are the world fastest boats For our next comment though we have Eric and says about how much for a full rewire of a 27 boat

So this is going to depend vastly on what you want to do with the boat

On average, for a 27-foot boat, depending on if you're doing it yourself or you are paying

someone to do it, how much stuff are you changing? For just the rewire, and that's changing out your switches and all the wiring in the boat

battery switches, breakers, and fusing and stuff like that, you're probably going to be in the boat for roughly $3,000 to $6,000 just in the parts

If you're changing the components on the boat as well, you're probably going to be in the $10,000 to $13,000 range because of all the components

And then if you are changing out the components and the electronics being your VHF, your radio

and your Garmin, your GPS transducer, all that stuff, you're probably going to be pushing $20,000 to $25,000

depending on what packages you go with. And then if you pay someone to do that

you're probably going to be looking at anywhere from $30,000 to $40,000

maybe even $50,000 based on what you put in that boat. Being a 27 foot boat has a lot of space

Is it a cuddy cabin? Is it a cruiser? Is it just a center console

because the different things that you're going to have on the boat are going to vary because the 27 foot boat

I mean, you can have a lot of different types of boats with a lot of different types of electronics and stuff in the boat

because 27 feet is getting into a be a larger boat. And then Jeff Platts says

I asked you during the live about V4 hydraulic steering. Yeah, we did a live last Tuesday a couple weeks ago

That was awesome. If you missed it, we apologize. We do do a live every week

week for our boaters program and channel members. So if you have not joined the

Broder's program, you can do that. We do have lives, which is a lot more interactive

asking questions and stuff like that, opposed to the podcast where it's mainly

answering the questions. But he put the V-Vor hydraulic steering on his 1996, 21-foot

Boston Whither outrage, and have to say he's impressed so far. Insulation was easy and a handle

similar to the C-Star also paid $400 compared to $1,900 for the C-Star. So

VVOR is definitely something that I want to try out. I'm glad that you did say this, Jeff

because, yeah, for $400 for the complete system, it is, I mean, that's crazy

But, yeah, to save $1,500 on the hydraulic steering system, it would probably depend also on the horsepower rating

I don't know how high VVOR will go. I want to say that they only do, like, 150 horsepower

I don't know if they're systems you can put on a 300 or not. I have not looked into it that much, but I do want to try that, and I appreciate you letting us know that, Jeff

That is a great comment. Simperfy says, is this stuff any good for a transom in a John boat

So now we're talking about PVC board. And I will say this, John, so PVC board is very, very soft

It is not near as durable as starboard or other types of plastics, but it is, you know, it's not going to rot

It's plastic. For using on a Johnboat, I'm sure you could use it as a backing

plate, maybe double it up so it's an inch thick and use a transom saver or depending on the engine

Because if you're just clamping the outboard on, say you've got a 25 horse and you're clamping

it, you're not bolting it. You definitely want to put something in front of the PVC. But as far

as the structure of it, using it as a transom, I will say this. We did use it on a 13 whaler about 10 years ago

I helped a friend of mine. We did a transom out of the PVC board

So, and I mean, he did most of the work. I was just kind of hanging out. But I did see it done

And it seemed to work. The boat, I mean, the boat's still being used 10 years later

So, you know, it held up there. But that's encapsulated in fiberglass

So a lot of the strength is the fiberglass, opposed to on the Johnboat

You're going to have the outside layer of the Johnboat, which is going to be either aluminum or some type of metal

depending on the brand and what the boat's made out of. But I would say using it as a backing plate

if you double it up, make it an inch thick. It's going to give you enough strength to hold a 25 horse

I mean, obviously depending on the John boat, I mean, you don't want to put like a 90 on there or something like that

That might be pushing the limits. But giving it the thickness gives you strength in the structure

and having an outside layer being a transom saver and the outside layer of the boat

that metal is going to give you, it's going to be your strength

and the thickness of the PVC board is going to give you strength

So, I mean, I think you could do it if you, depending on how you did it

You know, you have to be careful. You don't want to just put the clamps on the PVC board

because it's going to, the stuff is soft. It's going to smash it and it will fail

Your engine will fall off if you just use that PVC board. And then Southern Marsh says

what does that bleach do to metal? Well, it's just like any other chemical that you use any other kind of cleaner

You know, I wouldn't really worry about bleach doing stuff. I mean, you could worry about it if you just leave bleach on there, like wires, rubber, plastic, any other chemicals

I mean, acid, bleach, and different kinds of cleaners, stain remover, on off, windex, acetone, contact cleaner

Any cleaner is going to be harsh on the, the, the, metal, the aluminum, the fiberglass, your gel coat, your paint. It's going to be harsh on that

But depending on what you're doing, usually when you clean something, you clean it off

you really want to immediately put some kind of a protective on there. So like if you're trying to use one of these harsher chemicals like bleach on metal

you want to clean it. And once you get it cleaned, you want to polish it with something

Some kind of wax, alumigard, colonite, the arrow wax. you know, something that's going to put a protective layer on that metal, that gel coat

that paint, whatever it is, you want to put some sort of protected on it

Because if you leave any of that stuff, especially gel coat or metal even, the aluminum

as soon as you get rid of the protective layer that's on the metal that's usually on there

from either polishing it, compounding it, waxing it, whatever, you know, has been done to that

there is a finish on the metal. As soon as you break through that finish

the metal is going to corrode. It's going to rust. It's going to degrade way quicker

Just like gel coat. Jail coat is porous. It absorbs. So if you strip all the wax or the ceramic or whatever the protecting layer is on the gel coat off

it's going to get dirty and stain 10 times quicker than it did when it was

protected with that wax or whatever protectant was on there before. So just think about that whenever you're using harsh chemicals

Just clean them off. And then once you get the thing clean, put something on there

Even if you do a cheap wipe-on protectant that just gives like an oil base or some sort

of a wax film on top of it, that's going to really protect the material, whatever

it is. And it's going to keep it from staining, rusting, or degrading like the metal will

if you just pour bleach on it and then leave it there. Peter Smoor says

Curious about attaching quick hose disconnects to an outboard on the flush port to make flushing easier

I tried it on my Yamaha 300, and it seems to work without kinking the coolant hose

but I still wonder if the tighter bend in the hose is restricting flow to cool the engine

Is this a good idea or not? Well, basically on pretty much the vast majority of outboards

the flush port is not part of the cooling. system per se. What I mean by that is that your cooling system is designed to cool the engine and

your flushboard is basically just a hose that ties into that system. So usually there's a T-fitting

or a spot on the block or something like that where the flush hose just attaches there So when you flush it it just ties into the cooling system It is not like an integral part of the cooling system where like you know your taill tail

So on certain models like Yamaha, stuff like that, they tail tail, actually is a cooling water

that's coming through, say, your rectify regulator or the air cooler on the front of an F350 or something like that

the VST, your fuel rail, your fuel cooler. The tail tail, if that blocks, that water

that cools your fuel, the air, your rectify regulator, that is an integral part

Whereas your flush port, that's just tying into the system and flushing it out

It's not like, you know, it's not going to create a restriction or block the cooling water

that is flowing through the cooling system of the engine. So I wouldn't worry about that

Also doing the Quick Connects, that's a lot of times a really good idea

A lot of people love doing that. We just did a Flashmaster, which we're going to be doing something with Flashmaster

which is a really sweet setup. It's, I mean, it's a system that you can just put on your dock

You can put it on your boat and you put a garden hose to it. You set the timer, hit on, and boom, it'll flush the engine

It's pretty sweet. But those kinds of systems that flushing those quick connects

a lot of that is based on the user and how you use it. We have done that where a lot of people will tie into the cooling system

and then put the quick connects on the boat somewhere. People that can't really get around the engine

So like, if you look at some of the boat, the way the engine is designed with pulling platforms and, you know

tow bars, pontoon boats with fuel tanks in front of there or whatever

The engine's not always accessible. So if the engine is not accessible or say you're 75 years old and you can't bend over

and lean around an engine to put a flush port on, that's why people tie into those systems to flush the engine and put a quick connect inside the boat

opposed to just using the one that's on the engine already. so just kind of some food for thought

De Jinta says personally, I think what BRP did to their customers when they exited

Evan Rood is the definition of unreliable. Yeah, I'm going to agree with you on that one

That's pretty funny because, yeah, the way they did, I mean, the Evan Rood customers

yeah, they did them pretty dirty because, I mean, between dealership shutting down

parts supplies not being there, and now all these people that have warranties and need

to get work done on their engines. There's no dealers, and the dealers that are there, they're very hard to get into

Sometimes you have to drive two, four, six hours away just to get your boat in to get

service to, you know, get your 10-year warranty. You got this 10-year warranty, but you got to drive six hours away and have your boat

sitting at a dealership for three months to get work done. So, yeah, I mean, the way they exited, yeah, I would agree with you, D

Jinta. The way they exited Evanrude is that. definition of unreliable. User I Z5 says, thank you for all your content over the years

has helped me tremendously. Thank you user. Not sure where you don't have a name, but I have an

01 Mercury 90 horsepower two stroke. Getting mixed information online. Can I get your thoughts

please, on running without the thermostat? Boat lives and primarily only ever runs in South

Florida warm waters. Thank you for your input. So basically your thermostat, what your thermostat does

just in order to kind of get this question answered, your thermostat controls the engine temperature

by controlling the flow of the cooling water. Now, this becomes a problem when you think of condensation

Condensation, think of warm parts, a hot running engine setting fuel on fire

cool water, cold water temperatures, and humid air being water at sea level

or coming off the dew off the lake. So warm parts, cold water and humid air

I mean, those are what builds condensation. So that condensation, on a four-stroke, it's a problem because that builds in the crank

case and you can build up water in your crankcase. So if you take the thermostats out on a four-stroke and you run in really cold water

or not even that cold of water for extended period of time, you're going to build condensation

in the crank case, which is going to fill your oil pan with water, make your oil milky

you're going to lose lubrication. It can be a problem. If you're running in really warm water like you're talking about during the summer

when the water's 80, 90 degrees and the outside air is also 90 degrees

generally you're probably not ever going to see a problem because the engine temperature is up, the water temperature's up, you don't really have the scenario where you can build

as much condensation. In the winter, it could potentially be a problem because on a two stroke

you're not building that condensation in your crank in your crank case like to get to the oil plan the fuel and oil and air rolls through the crank case that's how it lubricates your crank case the cylinder and all that and it's routed around into the cylinder so you're going to be building up condensation or moisture i mean i mean it's a minute amount is it's very minimal amount of moisture but it does i mean it is it's moisture so longevity

wise you could be creating damage to the engine wear and tear think rust and corrosion stuff like

that because it's it's water and it can be corrosive in that type of an environment so in the winter

you could potentially eventually see a problem you might not ever because of the temperature being so

warm but at the same time in the wintertime down here it does get kind of cool so you could

potentially see a problem i would try and run the thermostats in the in the engine i don't know

you would not run the thermostats. If you can't run the thermostats in the engine

there's something else going on. Otherwise, a lot of reason why people will either have hollowed out thermostats

or they will have, you know, no thermostats is because you're running in a lot of grass

a lot of area where you're sucking up a lot of stuff and you're getting grass, sand

dirt, other stuff that's sticking in your thermostat, causing a problem. So I understand that situation

But that's kind of the discussion. and the insight that I have on it, whether or not you should or shouldn't

Realistically, like a lot of people used to do with Optimaxes, is there's a screen for the cooling water and they would put filters in there

So you would route the filter and you would just put that screen in there

where you could take the screen out or the filter and dump it out

So if you're running in real shallow waters, you're getting into seaweed, you're getting into grass, stuff like that

and you're sucking that stuff up, having a filter that you can kind of dump out real quick

that's what a lot of people did to get around that problem. But other than that, I would try and run the thermostat because, again, it's what controls

the engine temperature and maintains it by controlling the cooling water. So you really want to run that thermostat

Cybilius says owner of a 2002 Evan Rood 175 fict RAM, got to change the starter

It's supposed to be the battery or electric issues, but was the starter, now runs good

How can I know when I have to change the outboard? How long can it last and how can I notice when it's dying

So that is a interesting question and great topic because there isn't really a way of knowing when an outboard is going to fail

There are signs, but there is not really a formula based on I have this many hours, it is this age

and this is how much life is left in the engine. There isn't really anything that's going to tell you that

maintenance and condition are definitely going to be big factors in that but generally you run

an outboard until it dies by that i mean the powerhead locks up or it just won't run right anymore

also if the components on the engine say you have a 30 year old engine and the wire harness the

stator the tPS the injectors well 30 year olds might not have injectors

but the components of the actual engine are now starting to wear down to where every time you take the boat out

the stator went bad. Then my CDI box went bad. Now my ignition coils went bad

Then the flywheel magnets failed. Then the TPS went bad. So if every time you take that out because all your components on the engine are 30 years old they just fail pretty quickly because take the ignition system for instance everything 30 years old and

your stater, you change a stater. That stater before it failed was not producing what it should

be producing, so it's a lot weaker than what it should have been. You change that stater

and now all of a sudden you're getting brand new power like it's packing a punch. So now you're

providing way more power to the rest of your ignition system, being your CDIs

or your ignition coils, spark plug wires, all that stuff, it's not used to getting that much

So now that makes your CDI fail because it's now, you know

because it's so worn out, now all of a sudden it's taking more voltage, more amperge

than it normally was with that worn out stater. So then it fails

Then the coils fail. Then this fails. Then that fails. The engine harness

the rubber has now degraded that's protecting the wires. Now you've got shorts all the time

then you've got to change it out the wire harness. So when you get to an age point and you visually look at the engine and you can tell all these components are like failing, you know, one right after another, you have two options

One change the engine or two, change all those parts. So at that point in time, the amount that you're going to spend, especially if you got to pay somebody to do it and you can't do it yourself, if you got to base somebody to do it, paying that someone to do that and then changing out all those parts is probably going to be the same amount that you would spend on buying

say a used outboard that's 15, 20 years newer with half the hours

So in a roundabout way of answering the question, there isn't a formula that's going to tell

you how long the engine is going to last or when it's going to die. But the signs of what it looks like, if it's completely dirty and trashed out and hasn't been

cleaned in 20 years and it's covered in salt, you can think that that engine is not, it's probably

not reliable because it's, you know, you can see how dirty it is. But generally, you run it outboard

until it dies. So until that thing blows up or it costs you more money, then it would cost you to

replace it, then you just keep running it. That's, that's pretty much the way people, that's pretty

much the way I would run an engine when it comes to thinking about when to replace it. To Marin

I'm not going to try and say your name. He says, I just bought an older model boat for a good price

It was a Yamaha F-115-09 model with 350 hours. So we're talking about 2009 F-1-15

Runs great, but how many more hours do you think I will be able to put on the motor

What can I do to make it last longer or should I just sell it at a profit and get something newer

I got the boat motor and trailer for $6,000 in good condition. It is a G3 Eagle 180

So, Tamarin, bro. talking about 2009 so a 15 year old yama f-115 with 350 hours on it as long as that engine was taken care of and wasn't just left with the calving off sitting on the ocean with salt water splashing on top of it you're going to get hours and you know hundreds to thousands of hours more and years of use out of that engine i mean you haven't even broken that thing in yet 350 hours and 15 years on a yamaa um yeah

run that thing and don't even think about it. Yeah, you could sell it if you wanted something new

I mean, if you just want new, then yeah, you could do that. But if your concern is reliability and whether or not that engine is going to last a long time, yes

A 15-year-old Yamaha with 350 hours is going to last a long time

You might get another 15 years and another 1,000 hours out of that engine

So I wouldn't be concerned about trying to change that thing out unless you're trying to

trying to upgrade to something with more communication and stuff like that

Just do the maintenance, service it regularly, keep everything lubed up, greased, oiled, CRC on the engine

and that thing's going to give you a lot of use. It's a really, really reliable engine

Joe A says, First I heard of using grease on threads. Please explain

Seems like it would mess up the torquing of the bolts. I'm guessing, Joe, that you

live somewhere in the north, probably not in South Florida or in a heavy saltwater, warm

saltwater area. Or maybe you're very new to boating and you're not really used to this because grease is a must

on outboards and bolts because saltwater and corrosion, if you don't grease up your

bolts, you're not going to be able to get them out and it's going to be a problem. So you want to grease every bolt with the caveat of, you know, what are you doing

Are you rebuilding an engine, like a powerhead, putting a cylinder block, you know

you're putting the block together or putting the cylinder head on it

On that situation, yeah, you would want to use whatever it is, you know, locktight

whatever it is that you're doing, you know, I mean, based on what you're doing

sometimes you're supposed to use locktight, stuff like that. Based on that, yeah, you wouldn't use grease on your cylinder head

putting that cylinder head onto the block with the mating service and making

making sure that that's torqued right. You would use what you're supposed to use and then torque it to specs

But for everything else, the chaps, the thermostat bolts, the water jagger bolts, the water

pump impeller bolts, the prop shaft, the lower unit bolts, the drive shaft of the lower unit

like all that stuff needs to be greased. Because if you don't grease it, that stuff ain't going to be coming apart

Down here. If you live in Wisconsin and you are boating on a lake that is fed by, you're not

I melted snow from Canada and it's crystal clear clean water. You don't have ever have a problem with that

You probably are running an engine that's 40 years old because you're only getting 30 hours on the engine a year

and you only have a three month season. So on that, no. I mean, obviously you don't need that because it's just not needed

But down here, heavy use, heavy salt, warm water. Yeah, you want to grease them up because you're just asking for a problem if you don't

and we'll do one more from Mr. George Washington. He says, how much per hour does it cost to operate, maintain, and store a $200,000 used boat

Well, George, that's going to vary. I can tell you right now, it's going to be anywhere from $500 to $10,000 a month based on what you're doing

So based on, you know, $200,000 used boat, you can buy a lot of boat for $200,000,000

You can buy a 21-foot bay boat, or you can buy a 32-foot boat

and have twin engines on that thing. So based on, and also where you live

So if you're buying a 21 or a 23 bay boat, center console

Plain Jane, not a lot going on, $200,000 in today's market, doesn't buy a whole lot when it used to

but I still think you can get a lot of boat for 200 grand. And you live in, say, you know, the middle of Florida

or, you know, off the beaten path or not, you know, in a highly populated area where there's a lot of options

To store and operate the boat, I mean, you could do it for $500 a month

Whereas if you live in, say, marathon and you've got to store the boat at a marina

you could be paying anywhere from $500 a month to $1,500 a month based on the size of your boat

And then it's going to also cost you, depending on how much you use the boat

$500 to $3,000 in fuel based on how you use it. I mean, if you're taking this boat to the Bahamas every weekend

you're going to spend five grand in fuel. If you're going offshore three, four times a week

you're going to be burning a lot of fuel. You're going to be using a lot of, you know

boat, chum, lures, all that stuff. Like, you're going to be consuming a lot of stuff

So based on how you're operating the boat, that's the biggest key is, yeah, anywhere from, say

500 to $1,000 to own, operate, and maintain, and store the boat

and then up to say five, six, seven grand, if you live in a, you know, on an island and you're using a boat with twin engines

say a 32 and you're going out three, four times a week, yeah, you could spend five, six grand a month to operate, maintain

and store that boat