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Pulling An Outboard Powerhead!
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Aug 16, 2024
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View Video Transcript
0:00
When you talk about pulling a powerhead, it's one of those things that most people will interpret as being this massively complex project that will take weeks to get done
0:25
when in reality it's really not as complex as it sounds. And you are about to see exactly what this process looks like right now
0:33
and it's basically the same process for any outboard with only a couple of variations in processes
0:39
depending on what brand and what model of engine you are working on. For most of you that have been subscribed to the channel for a while
0:46
which I would call you all members of the Tuesday crew, and I want to thank you for all of your support
0:51
then you know our 1992-23-foot Ocean Master project boat, that we've been working on
0:57
And now the things are starting to return to somewhat normal, and we are getting the time to get back on the boat and get it ready
1:03
We were able to get on the engine and pull the powerhead to fix the leaking oil seals
1:08
But before pulling the powerhead, I'd like to apologize that we haven't been able to respond as quickly as we would like to
1:14
to all of your comments and emails, which is why we have also been working on putting together a platform
1:19
where we can have a more interactive community to help answer questions
1:23
and better serve you all in helping you fix your boats quicker. And we are hoping to have everything set up and running and available by the end of June next month
1:35
and we owe a special thank you to our buddy Mark Kohler over at KKOS for helping us on the legal side of things
1:42
making sure someone can't sue us and come take away all my tools. But he's getting close to that 100,000 subscriber mark
1:49
so if anyone wants to say thank you from us, even though you don't need an attorney
1:53
sure and subscribe to his channel to help him out. Now you've seen that we've painted the bottom of the boat and today we are going to
2:00
pull the powerhead on this 2009 300 horsepower Mercury Verado. This engine is leaking oil from the drive shaft oil seals that are in the adapter plate
2:09
so we've got to pull the powerhead in order to change them out. These are just the things that you run into whenever you're on a tight budget and have
2:16
to fix up what you can get your hands on. Now on every powerhead job you basically have to just go around the engine and detach
2:23
anything that is attached to the midsection or adapter plate from the powerhead
2:32
Any hoses. Wires Sinsors Censors sensors
2:51
bolts, or anything at all that we can leave on the powerhead when it comes off
3:05
We'll just work our way around the powerhead detaching all these items and most larger horsepower engines will have some studs that stick
3:14
through the back here and have nuts on them attaching the back down
3:18
We've got a little trick to show you later as well on how to put these back on here
3:22
whenever we put the engine back on later. This engine also has these two 10 millimeter bolts on the starboard side as well
3:34
And it also has two 12mm head bolts in the front. Unfortunately for this job, these bolts were seized in and the heads of the bolts were actually rusted
3:43
up pretty bad to where they were stripping off. So what we did is just took a smaller socket
3:49
We tried the 11 mil, but that was just a hair too small. So we used a 7.6 inch and basically hammered the socket onto the head of the bolt
3:58
Not to mention that the angle of this from the front is terrible and getting a half inch drive socket
4:03
into this space isn't as easy as you would think it would be
4:07
So we just hammered the smaller socket onto the bolt and finally, luckily got it to break free
4:13
Another thing that is common among almost all powerhead jobs is that you have to take
4:18
off the side chaps on the midsection and that will expose the nuts or the bolts that
4:24
are attaching the powerhead to the midsection. Some models have bolts and some like this Verado have studs with nuts on them
4:33
We'll just remove all of those nuts or bolts and as long as you have everything detached
4:37
that is connecting the powerhead to the midsection, we can install the lifting eye and lifting cables
4:43
Then using either a cherry picker or a forklift or whatever you have, we can lift the powerhead
4:49
off and take it away. Unfortunately for us, this thing is seized on and wouldn't come off, which in some cases
4:56
you can't get it off without damaging something. But in order to start the process, we just put the nuts
5:03
back onto the studs, lifted the back of the boat off the rack with the forklift attached
5:08
to the powerhead, and using some good penetrating oil like this Krull will spray around
5:14
the surface where the powerhead sits on the adapter plate and hammer on the studs to create some vibrations to get the Kroll to work its way in between the powerhead and the adapter plate You might also notice that you can see salt coming out of the holes where the studs go through the midsection
5:36
You'll want to just keep tapping on the studs and getting as much of that salt buildup out of there as you can
5:42
The studs are a common location where the seizing is happening. You can also drop the lower unit a little bit to make sure it's not stuck on the drive shaft of the lower unit
5:51
After coming back the next day and continuing spraying oil and lubricant around the powerhead
6:00
and hammering away on the studs, it finally freed up and we got a gap around the powerhead
6:06
where we could continue spraying and tapping until we could take the nuts back off
6:12
and pull the powerhead off. Once we got the power head off though
6:21
We went ahead and pulled off the lower unit. This way we could pull off the oil pump drive gear and socket and pull out the leaking
6:40
oil seal and the two water seals. You want to be careful when pulling these seals out though and not scratch the surface
6:46
where the seals sit. Clean up the surface where they sit. Then pull off the oil pump and replace the O-rings that sit under the pump
7:10
Sometimes these O-rings can deteriorate, so while you're here, it's a good idea to just go ahead and change them
7:21
Then I also like to change out the oil pump bolts for new ones as well
7:35
Since this is a really old engine, instead of applying oil to the seals like you normally would
7:39
I went ahead and used some gasket sealing compound on the back side of the seals and then push them in
7:51
Reinstall the oil pump, drive gear, and sprocket. Then put the chain tensioner back in
8:02
Since every engine is different though, I'm not going to give you the torque specs
8:06
You need to get the specs for your engine and then torque all the bolts down But now we can clean everything up like all the surface area around the adapter plate
8:22
and it's also a good idea while we are here to grease up the shift shaft as well
8:27
This can get seized up over time, so it's good to make sure that it's nice and clean as well
8:31
Then install the new powerhead gasket, we'll clean up the surface area on the powerhead, and we're ready to install it
8:37
and we're ready to install the powerhead back onto the midsection. Now this is a lot easier to do with more than one person
8:44
but if you have to work alone, then you'll have to get creative. For me, I just tie a string around the studs
8:50
and use that to control the powerhead as we drive up to the midsection that is on the boat
8:55
Then one other thing, depending on how the boat is sitting, the tilting of whatever you use to pull the powerhead and the midsection
9:02
you'll want to get the engine over the adapter plate and then use the trim unit on the midsection to make it line up with the studs
9:10
Then just slowly line up the studs and lower the engine down, checking it as you go down to make sure that everything is lined up
9:17
and that nothing is going to get pinched. Also make sure that the oil pump drive pins that are on the crank shaft
9:23
line up with the slots that are on top of the oil pump. Once you've got the engine all the way down, make sure it's seated all the way down
9:41
and reconnect everything that you disconnected. Reinstall the bolts and nuts around the bottom and in the front, then on these back nuts
9:48
here, the best way that I have found to get them started is to take a big flathead and place
9:54
the nut on the end of the screwdriver, you can then carefully stick the screwdriver into the
9:59
back and then stick the nut up onto the stud. Now using another long screwdriver, you can use the flat head just to keep the nut up and spin
10:08
the nut with the other screwdriver until it gets started. Once it started, keep spinning it until you can get the normal ratcheting wrench in there
10:16
to tighten the bolt all the way down. Now we just need to put the chaps back on, reinstall the lower unit, and add the oil back into the engine
10:42
Let us know if you've ever had to pull a powerhead in the comments section below, then check out some of our other videos
10:48
Subscribe to the channel and we'll see you next week
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