Is Idling Bad For Outboards?

NTJ says I have a 2012 mercury 40 horsepower 4 stroke

I've been told to stay at wide open throttle and do not idle because it will make oil at low idle speeds

When bass fishing, idling is key to use electronics to find fish

Is it okay to run wide open throttle and idle too? NTJ, I think you had last week's question as well

I don't know if you must have sent Rose something or maybe paid her off or I don't know how you got to be two first comments on two different weeks

But congratulations. As always, thank you for subscribing and for liking and commenting

Appreciate all your viewership and your contributions to these great topics. As far as idling being bad for the outboard, no, idling is not inherently bad for the engine

Last week, we did talk about making oil and all the issues of that with the break-in process and all those kinds of things

So we're not going to just recover that. But in and of itself, idling is not bad for the outboard

it is when you only idle and only troll, that's when you can have issues with the engine

I mean, you can make oil, you can have carbon buildup, you can have other issues with the engine if you only

idle. You're never getting the engine up to temperature and you are, you're not burning off carbon

And over the long period of time, it can cause you issues like the making of the oil

If you do not break in the engine, like if you only idle a brand new engine, okay, that's a different story

That is a very big problem. That is something that you do not want to do because it will be an issue for the life of that engine in most cases

Though you can usually fix it with a good re-break-in or a good dose of heat and, you know, a decarbonization component like Yick or something like that

But if you idle, yeah, you know, you're going to be building carbon and you're going to have blow by

That is why, yeah, you want to do wide open throttle and idling

So if you, depending on the water temperature that you run in, if you run in a water that is really, really cold

then you don't want to put your boat in the water, run across the lake, and then, you know, within seven minutes

just start idling for an hour to two hours. as you work a bank and, you know, you're fishing or you go up a river, something like that

What you're going to want to do is go ahead and put the boat in the water and then maybe

run a lap around the lake to heat up the boat, like or heat up the engine

Say 10, 15 minutes. Look at your temperature gauge, run wide open throttle, whatever you got to do in order to get

that engine up to temp. And then once you get that engine, you know, heat it up, now go over to your fishing spot

and work the bank, whatever you're going to do, you know, try and work at half hour

45 minutes. If you're in really cold water temperatures, then you might want to take breaks in between

So like fish for 45 minutes or something like that and then get up, run around in the boat

to get the engine temperature up. So that way you can minimize the amount of oil that you're going to make based on, you know

running a cold engine in cold water and only idling, which, is going to, you're not going to be burning the fuel and you're going to be getting that fuel

into the crank case being an issue. Also, like on SHOs and stuff like that, performance engines

the mapping of that engine is more for a very aggressive whole shot, top speed. It's built for

performance. It's not built for putting it into the lake, putting it over at 2,000 RPMs to a

fishing spot, idling for three hours as you fish, and then putting back and putting it up on

up on the trailer and taking it home. That's not what that engine is designed for

It's designed for power and speed and for performance. So in that thing, you know

the mapping of that engine might be a little more aggressive with the fuel

So if you have a richer fuel-to-air mixture being put into the engine

because it's once that fuel and that air in there in order to give you that aggressive

hole shot and that top speed, which is more fuel. you need more fuel, more air in order to get more performance

So the mapping of that engine is built that way. So if you're getting a rich, you know, mixture at idle

one, it can clean off the oil from the walls of the cylinders. And then two, you can get blow by and it'll push the fuel into the engine oil

And there you got a problem. Now, you can fix that by changing the propeller

So if you are under propped or maybe you're way over propped, something like that, it's going to affect the load that's on the

the engine, which is going to, you know, increase the making of the oil or not being able to burn it or

staying at a really colder temperature because the engine's never, you know, working hard enough to

get up to higher temps, which is going to help you burn that fuel and all that off. So that's kind of

the issue with the idling. It's more of a temperature issue and a not being able to burn and get a

good, clean, full combustion of the fuel air mixture that's being put in the air mixture that's being put in

the engine. So that's kind of the discussion of it. Justin Lowe says, hello, love your videos. Thank you

Justin. Thank you for liking, subscribing, and checking out the videos. I have a question. If you

don't mind offering your expertise, I have this same motor. Underload, mine does like 10 miles per hour

full throttle in the water, out of the water. It throttles high and normal. Have any idea what it

could be. I think you're talking about that. We've got a 90 Yamaha two stroke that we're working on right now

most likely that's what you're talking about. It could be so many different things

It's not even funny. Under load, that's how it's going to be for most engines

Most engines out of the water in neutral, you can rev them up and they will go

you know, they'll reach a high RPM. They'll hit the rev limiter, whatever it may be

depending on the engine. But when you put them in the water and you put them under a load

then they don't go anywhere. It could be electrical. It could be fuel

You've really got to start from the basics and check out, you know

know, your spark, compression, and fuel pressure. So make sure that you've got spark on all cylinders

make sure you've got good spark plugs, make sure you have good fuel filters to supply fuel to your fuel system

and then make sure you have the fuel pressure that, you know, you need to be able to operate the engine

The issue with putting the load on it and the not loading, if it's fuel related

usually that's because in neutral with no load, it doesn't take as much fuel to ramp up those RPM

Whereas whenever you put it under a load, it needs more fuel in order to create the RPM

and the torque to overcome the load that is being put in the propeller

being the boat in front of the engine in front of the propeller. So you run out of fuel and then it bogs down and then boom

you got a problem, which is a fuel volume problem. With a car rated engine, that could be it

it could also be a spark problem where under a load, maybe you have some bad spark plugs or

the timing isn't correct. And so whenever you put it on a load, the timing isn't advancing

the way that it should in order to keep up with that, which if your timing's off, the, when the spark

plug fires, doesn't matter if your fuel air mixture is right and you have the right of volume of fuel

in the cylinder. If it doesn't fire when it's supposed to, you could have a problem. So I would start

with making sure you have good plugs, good clean fuel pressure, like good clean fuel filters, and then

put a piece of clear hose before, like, right where the engine hooks up to make sure you've got

good fuel going to the engine. And then also, like on ours, there was a cut in the fuel line going

to the fuel filter. So on the engine, so that would have been a problem similar to what you're saying

But you're going to have to break it down. You need to go make sure your basics are covered and then check your fuel system

Probably pull the carburetors and clean the carburetors because even if it does it on land

whenever you put a load on the engine, everything changes because an engine with no load can just spin up and not have a problem

And you going to hit a rev limiter or you running so high in idle or with no load It not good for the engine for one and for two um you just there just no load it it going to it going to be able to make those r pm because there nothing stopping it so

that's what i was going to do that's what i would do just in constance in famine says what about ams

oil so talking about different oils i think this is a personal preference i'm not an oil expert

the ams oil makes a great product mobile makes a good product for me in the outboard world

you definitely want a marine oil. I wouldn't be using a non-marine grade oil in an outboard or an inboard or anything

like that, mainly because of the environment. So with an engine that is being used on a boat, you have a lot different factors to take

into consideration opposed to your car. So your car is, it's on land, it's got a closed loop cooling system with a radiator

are using any freeze. Compared to a marine engine, you're being used on the water and you are using a lot higher

RPM as well as a raw water cooling system, which means that you are, you know, you're

constantly running close, you know, it's raw water going through the engine, which comes with

its own problem. So the actual cooling of the engine, the oil is not getting as hot

So on your car, your oil, your oil, temp depending on the car and the model is going to vary greatly

Some of them are 190 degrees when you're running. Some of them are up into the 200s

So you're talking, you know, 220, 2.30. So you've got a lot hotter oil in the car than you do with the boat

So in the boat on the outboard, the oil tank is basically submerged in the water

which keeps that oil temp down a lot. Yes, at wide open thrall, the oil tim is going to get up to 220, 2.30, depending on the model, it's going to get up into the 200s

But the colder the oil is in because of the air that is being used, I'm trying to think of a good way to explain it

Because think about condensation. If it's running really cold, you can create condensation

Condensation is water. And now water can accumulate in the oil. oil not getting as hot as it does in the car is unable to burn off that water. So you have an issue of

potentially getting water in the oil. So the attributes and the makeup of the oil needs to be

able to account for the lower temperatures and the possibility of getting a small amount of water

into the oil. So the makeup and the chemical properties of the oil needs

to be specific for the marine application. That's, you know, hands down, doesn't matter if mobile, Ames Oil, whatever the oil product is

it needs to be a marine-based product because it needs to have those properties built into it

Unlike your car that runs, like I said, 220 degrees regular, whereas the engine oil in the outboard is going to be a lot colder

I mean, it might be running 160. Like, it's a lot colder

As far as the different brands, my personal opinion, I like to stick with OEM

I like Yama Loub. I like Merks. I like Quicks. I like Suzuki

So I kind of tend to, I mean, you know, it doesn't mean one's right or wrong

It's just been ingrained in me working at dealerships and working for brand manufacturers

I stick with the brand that it is. So, you know, that's my personal opinion

argue what you want to argue about it. I mean, I'm not an oil expert either

So I think Ames Oil makes a great product, mobile makes great product

pins oil makes a good product. So I think all three of them make a marine grade oil

So, you know, whether it's conventional or unconventional, fully synthetic, you know, all those variables play into a part

I stick with the OEM. And, yeah, I think biggest thing, Marine

and the right viscosity. Make sure you're using the right viscosity for wherever you're at

That would be my two main things that I would say. Dave says

what about FSR products? I have had good luck on fiberglass boats

FSR is a stain remover. I don't have a lot of experience with it

So I can't have an opinion on it. I've never tried it

I should probably pick some up. FSR is not really expensive. I don't know if it probably has some kind of acid built in myriatic acid

or something in there like goof off. or on off or some of those other stain removers

A lot of them have some sort of an acid built into them, but I don't have much of experience with FSR

I probably need to go out and buy some FSR and do some testing with it

So I'm glad that you said that. So anybody that's looking for some stain remover, FSR is a cheap alternative

I mean, honestly, in my opinion, I like goof off because it's so much cheaper than on off

I think it works better. On off is just super expensive. So, you know, that's just kind of my opinion

FSR, I think, is right around the same price as goof off. It might be like five, ten bucks more

So I need to get some and try it out. So thank you for, you know, putting that out there

Anybody that wants to try it or knows about it, it's a good stain removal product

Trung View says any thoughts of using Mobile One synthetic engine oil versus Yamaha

Merkir, Honda, etc. Marine oil, Mobile One is far superior oil in cars

oils. Like I was saying back with Constance in famine, it needs to be the marine oil and the

viscosity's number one. I think it's a personal opinion probably. I mean, there's probably

not that much of a difference. I've never done an extensive oil testing as far as that

And I don't think Project Farm has anything on marine oils. So I think, yeah, Mobile 1 makes a great

product. Pins oil makes a great product and AMs oil too. So Mobile 1, obviously like you said

as far superior oil and car oils, but marine oil and viscosity

get those two right and you probably won't have any problems, but I personally, I like the OEM product

but that might be not teaching an old dog new trick. So that's that

Redwood says what size compressors do you need for this gun? Thank you

So talking about running a paint gun, I think is what we're talking about here. So Redwood, as far as a compressor to run a paint gun

the bigger the tank, the better. obviously because you want constant air pressure

If you drop your air pressure, you can have problems with the gun

And then also you need to have water separators in line from coming out of the compressor

So I would say the smallest that I would probably try is like a 60

It depends on what you're painting. So if you're painting, you know

something, a small area that you can use, like if you can use an airbrush

and only need a 10-gallon portable air compressor, awesome. But if you're using a real paint gun and you are trying to paint, you know

the whole side of a boat or the inside of a boat or a cabin or something that, you know

has some space to it, you want more capacity. So will a 40 work probably

Do you want to go less than that? Probably not. I would say like a 40, 60 or an 80

Really, the more capacity of the air compressor, the better because. it's going to be able to keep up with the gun

And you need to have the same consistent pressure as you spray the gun

And you need to be able to have the working time with the air. Because if you run out of air pressure, you're going to mess up because the paint will clod

and it'll clog the tip. It'll start, you know, becoming a sporadic spray pattern

And you won't have a good finish. So the more volume that you have in air, the better

And then also definitely have the water separators in there. So you want the filters, like right when it comes out the tank

and then I would even put another one down the line. So that way you don't get any water in the air

Because if you get water in the air and then that makes it to your gun, it's going to be a big problem because then when you spray it out

it's going to have droplets all in the paint. And you're going to mess up your paint pattern and have a problem that you're going to have to fix

So that's what I would say as far as the compressors go. Steed A says is blow by the main reason that Merck puts 2540 in the Veradoes I have an L4 and always wondered why 2540 I don know if I would say that it blowby is the reason that they want that thicker oil

I mean, some of the older L6s and probably even that L4 would be like 2550 and then also 2540

But I think the thicker oil is because it is a forced induction

It has a supercharger on there. So it does like that thicker oil

but also they're going to burn oil. So blow by, yeah, it probably plays a little bit of a factor in there

because when you're talking about forced induction, like we were talking about last week with outboards that make oil or burn oil

you can have some blowby. So on forced induction, you can get some blowby that pressurize the oil

which is going to make you burn some oil. So thicker oil, it probably assists in that

But that's probably the main reason. Yeah, I mean, yeah. I think you're right, Steve

So, you know, not much you can really say other than that. Because, yeah, you need most of them are 2540, 2550

and all the new varados, the naturally aspirated engines, because they're not supercharged

Even though you can get blowby on naturally aspirated engines, it's more prevalent in something that has boost

and supercharged forced induction into it. to have more blow by. D.D. says, do I have to use Quicksilver Optimax two stroke mortar oil for my

Mercury 115 Optumax two stroke? Will Amz Oil, HP oil, or any other DFI oil be okay? I stick with the OEM

stuff. I know it's getting super expensive. I want to say it was like $70 a gallon for the DFI oil

Mercury Quicksilver makes a synthetic. It's a fully synthetic DFI oil. Definitely you want DFI oil. You don't want to use like just a normal two

stroke oil because the way that system works is it's a lot different than others

So like, you know, there's different types of engines. So on an Optumax or an HPDI, it's different than a carbureted two stroke because of being

direct fuel injection. So I would stick with the OEM stuff. I'm not going to tell you to go use an aftermarket just because if there is a problem, most

likely you'll never have a problem. But I don't know. I mean, I really don't know

I think sticking with the OEM would be the best, even though to a point, oil is oil

So the AM's oil would probably be okay, but I would stick with the OEM

Hans Gruber says oil is oil. Like I just said that, oil is oil. Yamalube is a rip-off due in oil ysis and prove me wrong

What's the difference in a marine oil versus car oil? Facts, please, not opinions

Well, Hans, like I said, not an oil expert. It's not really a rip-off

I wouldn't call rip-off. Yes, to a point. oil is oil. But again, like we've said, all the things earlier, the marine application versus

a car application, totally different with the water, the condensation, the viscosity levels

the temperature of the oil. It's different than car, like your car oil, and there are two different

environments, two different applications, two different RPM settings, two different temperature ratings. So yes, it is different than the car, but as far as, you know

Yomaloo versus Am's oil and Mobile One versus mercury oil, you would need an oil ysis

And I would say that you're probably going to find there's not much of a difference

but there could be somewhat of a difference. So whether or not, you know, anything other than that, but as far as the oil ysis versus

the Marine versus the car, like that's not even, that's not even a discussion

And again, you know, the facts are the environment. Like, you know, you run your car down the highway at 80 miles an hour

you know, running 2,500, 3,000 RPM, whereas you run your, where your only resistance for the car is wind and your inclines

But you use transmissions with gear reduction to, you know, compensate for that

Whereas in your boat, you're running 6,000 RPMs coming in and out of the water

loading and unloading a propeller, pushing, a 15,000 pound boat with the drag of the water and using no you know only the gear reduction of

the lower unit so it's a one phase system where there is no change so you're going to have a

much higher and significant load on the engine and again 6,000 RPM so the lubrication

properties that you need for that are way different running you know again different temperatures

different RPM, all that. Like there's, we've, we've covered that topic pretty good

So hopefully that fixes that discussion. Matt Townsend says, what did you do at Publix

Did you have a good experience? I mean, I worked at Publix in 2011 to 2013

I did pretty much everything. So, you know, originally I started in the, you know, in the front

Then I was in the grocery department. I was in the meat department. I was in the seafood department

I was in the deli department. I was in the Baker department. I was in the lunch meets department

and then also in the produce department. And pretty much what I did was because I was in all the departments

I was used as like a floater. And so I pretty much floated around

I was at one main store, but then I also worked at three other stores that, you know

whenever someone would call out, they would call me because I wanted the money. And I would just go and work whatever shift they needed

whether it be in the bakery, produce, deli, whatever. So I had a really good experience

The stock is great. So if you get the stock, you know, that's really good money if you want that corporate life

And then eventually I settled into mainly being in the grocery department

and then taking the managers test and then, you know, started making way more money doing the boats

And I like being outside and doing the boats. So that was kind of like why I left there

But I had a good experience. I think it's a good company to work for. Hemmy officials says

what is the best way for one to get started in this industry besides going to far pricey schools

what brands engines would you recommend. Whatever you like. I think you should find something that you like

If you like Hondas, go for Honda. If you like Yamaha, go for Yamma. If you like Mercury, go for Mercury

And find yourself a dealership to get into. Getting in the door and working at a shop is the best way

So learning all you can learn, getting your hands on as much as you can get on, consume as much content as you can consume

Join our boaters program in the boaters program. It's a different way of learning

We have lives and stuff like that. And then also there is basically the program is everything that I've ever experienced and learned as I, you know, work on boats

I make, I make videos of that and I teach that. I put it into courses and then boom, it's all right there

So if you want to learn about that stuff, you can join that program and take all the courses that you want

And you can learn as much as you want and then go get a job at a shop

That's going to be the best way. Pick an engine that you like and then find a dealership that you can, you know, hopefully get a job at

and then do whatever you can do to get in that door and, you know, start working with them

whether that's, you know, working in the parts department, in the service department, cleaning boats or whatever, you know, get in there and make it very apparent that you want to

become a mechanic and then just just go get it. Like it's one of those things that you got to get it

If you want it, you got to go get it. No one's going to give it to you. If you put forth the work, then people are going to give you an opportunity

So I'd say the best way is consume as much content as possible

learn as much as you possibly can, work on as many of the engines as you can and do whatever you can do

to get into a marina of the brand that you like the most

Like if you don't like mercuries, then I probably wouldn't say go try and get in a mercury dealership

unless you have no other options. If you have no other options, then go for it

Go get into whatever marina you can get. So that way you can get on the boats and get your hands on the products to start learning the stuff

Fake name says I had similar thoughts of what I have done

when I pulled my 25 off my fiberglass and put it on an aluminum boat. Don't get me wrong

The aluminum isn't actually that bad, but it does sound like beating the crap out of a beer can

and have 48 kilometers an hour, have had thoughts of lining the hall with sound deadening like you would use in cars

but not sure if it would help or just add weight and do nothing. It might do some, but I don't think it's going to do much

I think the sound of aluminum going through water, like there's nothing you can do about it because like an aluminum boat

like most of them you're sitting in it like you're sitting in there the floor is like there's no

difference like in most boats like five glass stuff you got the whole boat then you got bulkheads then you got the deck of the boat So there a big you know there a big void there that will dampens that sound

Whereas in a lot of aluminum boats, you're there on the, like, your feet are on the hole

There is nothing, you know, the bulkheads are beat in, but it's all opened up. So I don't think putting any, you know, sound dampening material on the boat would take care of the sound

it might do a little bit, but it might not be enough to notice. So do you want to spend the money and the time to put that stuff in there to find out that it doesn't do that much

Or it could? I mean, I don't know. I don't really see it doing that much because you're right there

Like it's the aluminum's right there. So Anthony says, what else is a little strange is these new sealed fuel tanks

I guess they started in 2016, but I hear people smelling fumes because the amount of pressure the tank builds

If you're smelling fuel in your boat, like that's not good. Most of the sealed tanks are just sealed by using demand valves, an anti-cyphon valve, well, more demand valves, which is like on the pickup, there is a, it's like a little diaphragm, I guess you would call it

And that will allow fuel to flow in one way, but not the other way, but it requires a vacuum on one side of it

So when the fuel pumps kick on, it pulls that open and then it'll co-out

So fuel expands with heat. So in the summer, the fuel is going to expand

It creates pressure inside the tank, and that valve won't open until it hits a certain level of pressure

So then on the vent side, they have put on, you know

some of them, there's different ones. Some of them vent up back into the fill cap of where you fill it

And there's, again, another thing there with a spring on it, and it's pressure related

And then other ones run through a carbon canister filter and then out of the boat

So if you're smelling fuel, like there might be something else going on

Generally, I haven't really seen very many problems with, you know, newer fuel systems

other than like, you know, problems, like legitimate problems ofこう muddobbers or bugs or, you know

a kink and a hose or a clog or something like that

Like, you know, like an actual legitimate issue that would happen even on a non-vented tank

so, or on a vented fuel tank. So I don't know if you're smelling fuel because the tank is building

like if you're smelling fuel, it's relieving somewhere. So no matter what, even if it's pressurized, like that pressure

those valves are supposed to relieve the pressure. So on a non-vented take, when it's pressurized

it's just allowing the fuel to just push all that pressure out

whereas on the non-vented tanks, it builds the pressure, but eventually the pressure is going to go out somewhere

That's why they put like carbon canister filters or something like that on there to, you know

clean the emissions, I guess you'd say. So if you're smelling fuel, you probably have something going on

Like there's leaks somewhere, obviously. And if it's just coming, if you're just smelling fuel coming out to vent

it's not really a problem. But I haven't seen that many problems with them. Stonehands

great video, very informative. So you work at a dealership that is sales and service or an

independent tech. And how does that work in my part of the country? It's sales and service to do

Mercury or Yamaha. So I mean, that's pretty much cross globally. Every brand is pretty

proprietary to their stuff. And in order to get access to their stuff like parts and literature

stuff like that, you have to work for a dealer. So it doesn't matter where you are. And other ones have

different tiers. So you can't have, you know, a sales only or a service only place. Like

you know, Bass Pro is sales and service. There are some shops that are service only. They don't

sell any engines. They don't sell any boats. They're just a service center that does warranty work

and services, Mercury, Yamaha, whatever may be. But yeah, you have to work for a dealer

Me personally, right now I do mainly independent, but I work with a dealership. So I worked at

the same dealership for over a decade, and I still work with that dealership doing different

things. Like going, I'm going to be there next week rebuilding a gear case and also doing some

repower, stuff like that. So like I work with a dealership. Now, dealerships are all different

too. So like if you work for a big brand, like most dealerships are straight up, you know

you work for them. Not most dealerships don't contract stuff. Like you can't really contract out

Like the marine industry is pretty proprietary. Like most of them want to, if you work for this dealer, you're this dealer

And there is no other way of being brand affiliated with a brand other than working with

a dealership. So not really any way of becoming an independent tech without being a dealer to work

with a brand, you know, like Mercury Jam Ha, something like that

And then Maverick wants to know, just curious, are you still working for a marine business or starting your own with Donnie

seen him in a while good good video and organized shop definitely increases productivity so yeah like

i said i still work with a dealership and donnie really only works with one other independent contractor

and donnie he just turned he's 21 he's out on his own now so he's figuring out what he wants to do

so that's why you haven't seen donnie very much lately honest dabe says why was that engine covered in

salt does it not seem does not seem normal so it depends on the brand

Usually, engines should not be covered in salt, but a lot of it has to do with engine hours and how the engine is taking care of as well as the boat

So on different types of boats, you're going to have different, you know, ways that the water comes off

Like catamaran's, catamorans have a lot of spray on the back. So, you know, because they're separated holes, you'll get a lot of spray

And so that spray will spray up on the engine. And depending on the cowling, the gaskets, sealing the cowl

and, you know, stuff like that, it can get water into it

Also, is there a leak inside of the engine? Like if you have a water leak, something like that, where you've got water leaking in the cowling

And then also down in like the Keys or South Florida, it's a heavy, heavy salt environment

The salinity and the mineral buildup of the water in the Keys is way different than the water

make up in Washington. So like cold salt water and deep water salt water versus like Caribbean salt water

There's different properties. Like down in the Keys, there's a lot of calcium and limestone from all the coral

So the salt content is a lot higher. And in hot, you know, waters, the water is constantly condensating and evaporating

which means that you have a high salt content in the air. So even the air that is being sucked into the engine has salt in it

So the more of the boats used and wherever it's at, you're going to have salt there

So that's where that salt buildup comes from. And that's why you got to clean your engines

You can't just, you know, never take off the cowling and expect it to be super clean

But there's a lot of people that if you don't live in South Florida, you don't do any salt water

Like you don't know anything about this. I only know salt water. I don't have the luxury of working on freshwater boats where you only have a three, four months boating season on a cold water lake or a river where it's all fresh water

And you got 30 year old engines that look brand new because the environment and the way it's used is so much easier

For me, I mean, we don't do nothing but work on rust, broken bolts, salt engines and corrosion and all kinds of problems like that

like that's all I know. So it seems normal to me because I know, you know

that engine itself has like 2,000 some hours on it, it's what it had

And yeah, over 2,000 hours. Those hours were all in about a year, year and a half

So if you get 2,000 hours in a year, year and a half and you never clean the engine

that's what the engines look like. So just kind of a part of dealing with water

dealing with the salt content, and the environment that we work in, which is why it's so important to

know your market and take care of your engines. Keep up with routine maintenance

and that's how you're going to make your engines last longer, but that's why the engine was all covered in salt