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Why Not Put A Bracket On? How To Install Bracket
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Aug 16, 2024
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View Video Transcript
0:00
What's up everybody, it's Technicians Tuesday
0:05
This week we are going to be installing our outboard engine bracket onto our project boat
0:10
If you like learning about boats, project boats, and being able to fix your own boat
0:15
then hit that subscribe button, click that notification bell, and let's get this bracket put on
0:20
Last week we finished the Transom by spraying the gel coat and we got the rub rail installed back onto the boat
0:26
Making us ready to get our bracket installed. Now when it comes to installing an outboard bracket, we have some things to consider
0:33
When you buy a bracket brand new, they will need to know the degree of the transom in order to get the proper bracket for you
0:40
We'll start by figuring out what degree our transom is first. To do this, we'll take a 16 inch by 24 inch framing square and place the 24 inch side on the strikes and on the chines of the boat
0:52
Then we'll just barely touch the top of the square on the transom and measure the distance on the bottom
0:59
For this boat, we come out with 4 and a quarter inches, we will then do the same thing on our engine bracket that we bought used
1:06
We want to see how far off they are going to be. For the bracket, we come out with 3.5 inches
1:13
We can use these figures to see what degree the transom in the bracket have
1:17
For every quarter inch, it is equal to 1 degree, so 1 inch equals 4 degrees
1:23
This means that our transom is 17 degrees, and our bracket is only 13 degrees
1:29
What this means is that we are going to have a four degree downward angle which is going to bring our engine down more into the water
1:37
as well as having a downward pitch to the bracket when it is sitting in the water
1:43
This will affect the way the boat rides and handles, so we'll need to compensate for this and if you are buying a bracket used like us
1:51
then you will need to check on this before just drilling holes and mounting the bracket
1:55
I'm fine with a downward pitch and we'll just have to run a little more t
1:58
the engine while on plane, but it's not that big of a deal. But it will require some changes as to
2:04
how high we mount the bracket. Normally, when measuring for an outboard bracket, we will measure from the
2:10
keel up the tranceum the distance of the engine drive shaft. Since we are using a 25 inch drive shaft
2:16
motor, we want to measure up from the keel 25 inches and mark that. This is where we want the top
2:22
of the transom bracket to go. Then we can measure up the transom from that mark to the top of the
2:27
transom which this time is 18 inches Now we can measure from the top of the transom down to the deck of the boat and see that it is 19 inches We want to check this in order to see where our bolts that hold the bracket on are going to come through the transom If we measure from the top of the bracket to the bottom of the bowl hole we can see that we have 1 and 3 quarters of an inch of distance
2:50
If we bolted the bracket on at 25 inches from the keel, this would place our bolts basically directly into the floor, which we can't have
2:58
This is where that 4 degrees of downward placement comes into play
3:03
We can take that 4 degrees and then the 3.5. the 3 inches of height that we have to play with using the bolt holes on the engine bracket
3:10
allowing us to move the engine up or down a couple of inches, we can bring our bracket up
3:15
and mount it at 27 inches instead. We will still be able to hang the engine correctly and get the water flow coming from
3:22
the bottom of the hole to hit the engine's lower unit right where we want it to be while
3:26
on plane. We'll need to use a little more trim to get that, but that's okay
3:31
We do have another video about the mounting height of an outboard and you can check that
3:35
by clicking on the card in the top right hand corner of the screen
3:39
So we can mark where we want the top of the engine bracket to sit at 27 inches from the keel of the boat
3:44
We'll also want to put tape on the transom to protect it from the bracket while we are measuring things out
3:50
and putting the bracket up against the transom. I'm just putting tape above the water line because the rest of the transom will be getting bottom paint
3:57
which will cover any imperfections. Once we get the tape on, we can mark our 27 inch mark on the tape
4:03
then we'll shim up the bracket and get it up against the transom just to make sure we are okay with the way everything looks
4:10
Fortunately, we have a forklift to move the bracket around and with some two-by-fours we can get the right angle and place the bracket up against the back of the boat
4:33
Everything looks good to me, so we can move on to figuring out the center of the transom
4:40
and then getting it in the bracket marked up. The first thing we need to do is figure out the center of the transom
4:47
This is pretty simple. You just have to remember that there is no such thing as a perfect boat
4:52
They aren't completely square, and the gunnels, the shapes, the strakes, there's going
4:56
to be some differences between each of the sides. So to find the center of the boat, we'll take a tape measure and go from the
5:03
the bottom strake and hold a marker on a specific measurement. Then with a sweeping motion
5:08
move upward marking the transom. We'll move over to the opposite side and do the exact same thing
5:14
leaving us with an X that shows us the middle We do this for each strait the chines as well as from the tops of the gunnels Then we can take a straight edge and mark a line from the top to the bottom middling all the Xs the best we can
5:29
They won't be completely perfect, but this will put the lower unit of the outboard in the middle of the keel
5:34
to keep the boat from veering to one side or the other. We then need to mark the middle of the bracket by measuring the width of the bracket
5:42
and then placing a penciled mark in the middle of the bracket on the top as well as the bottom
5:47
Now we can place the bracket up against the transom and line up the marks on the bracket
5:53
with the line that we have going down the middle of the transom. This will center our bracket up and we can place the top of the bracket up to our 27-inch
6:01
mark we have, giving us the correct height. Then after getting everything in position, it's time to start drilling holes
6:09
We'll drill our holes on roughly the same angle as the transom
6:12
This way our bolt heads will sit flat against the transom. We'll start by drilling out the very end bolts on each side of the bracket, then we can install
6:23
the bolts for each side of the bracket and tighten them up to hold the weight of the bracket
6:28
allowing us to drop the forklift and pull it out of the way and drill out the next two
6:32
holes that are on the outside of the platform. With those bolts in before unbolding the bracket, we'll take a pencil and go on the inside
6:41
of the bracket and mark each of the bolt holes that go on the inside of the flotation part of the
6:46
bracket. This way when we pull the bracket off, we can drill these holes out and then dry fit
6:51
the bracket one more time before sealing it up. We'll pull the bracket off and then tomorrow
6:56
we can begin drilling out these holes here, but before that, since it's the end of the day
7:01
it's a great time to smash that like button. And then here is a really important tip. Before
7:06
just blindly drilling out these holes that will be under the deck, it's best to make sure
7:11
that none of them are going to go into a stringer where we won't be able to put a through bolt in
7:17
So if you aren't sure, it's a good idea to start with a smaller drill bit like a 3 eighths inch instead of a half inch
7:23
That way you can put a lag bolt in if it is into a stringer
7:27
Fortunately, we don't have that issue with this application here. We can go ahead and drill out the rest of our holes
7:33
Then what we need to do is to seal up all the holes that we drilled with some resin
7:38
We want to come to the inside of the boat and place a piece of our holes. of tape on the holes to keep our resin from leaking down into the boat
7:46
Then we can mix up some resin and using a small brush we'll seal up all of the holes
7:50
by pushing the resin in and then wiping off any of the excess resin that leaks out
7:55
with a rag and letting that soak in and dry up for a little while before putting the bracket on We will dry fit the bracket one more time and then tape off the transom as well as the bracket before applying any sealant
8:08
We also want to have our bolts and washers prepared and ready to go
8:15
Then we can take some 5,200 and go around each and every bolt hole, as well as run an exterior
8:21
bead around the edge of the bracket. We'll also put a circle around the holes on the transom and now we are ready to put the
8:27
bracket up to the tranceum and bolt it on. For our bolts we want to run a thick bead of 4200 around the bolt starting about where
8:40
the bolt is going to stick out the other side of the transom
8:44
This will put a consistent coating of sealant through the transom, sealing each bolt all the
8:48
way through. We'll put the two outside bolts in first and then tighten them up evenly, but not all
8:54
the way we want to get all the bolts in before tightening them down. Once we get all the bolts through, including all the bolts here in the bilge, we can go around and tighten them up
9:04
We'll start with the bolts here inside the bilge and then work our way to the very outside bolts of the transom
9:14
Then we want to clean off all the excess sealant on each of the bolts that are on the inside of the transom and that are going to be visible, just to give them a cleaner overall look
9:25
After we have cleaned off the bolts, we are going to be visible. the bolts we are going to want to see a nice amount of sealant smushed out all the
9:31
way around the bracket like this as well as the same amount going all the way
9:35
around the inside of the bracket letting us know that we have all of our bolts
9:39
completely sealed up we won't worry about cleaning up the sealant inside of the
9:44
bracket but we want to smooth out all the sealant that goes around the bottom of
9:47
the bracket as well as the top of the bracket you also want to use up to sealant
9:52
because if it isn't used in a timely manner then it hardens up and is useless at this
9:56
point, putting you in a bad position when you are in the middle of a project
10:01
So after getting more sealant, we sealed off the rest of the outside edges and then smoothed
10:06
them off. I like to use the tape to get a nice clean line when applying a lot of sealant on things
10:12
like this. Once you get the sealant put on and smoothed off with your finger, when you pull the tape
10:17
it leaves a really clean line that looks great once we're done
10:21
Don't forget to get subscribed to the channel and then visit us on our website at
10:25
born again boating.com. Next week we'll be cleaning and installing our teetop canvas and you
10:30
don't want to miss that. We'll just put in our access cover and our drain plug then we'll
10:35
change the anode after we finish painting the bottom of the bracket. Thank you for watching
10:40
Enjoy your Tuesday night and we'll see you next week
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