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CHEAP BOAT RESTORE!!!
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Aug 16, 2024
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View Video Transcript
0:01
Two things you have to know
0:02
You don't want to do this and you don't want to do this
0:06
But you do want the boat to end up looking like this
0:30
This here is a 1973 20 foot sea craft
0:44
The boat's been previously restored about 15 years ago, but now the deck's all peeling up
0:49
and the rest of the paint is blistering all over the hall inside and out
0:53
Now the plan for this boat is basically to get it water ready so that it can be used for
0:57
the rest of the summer and the fall into winter. when it gets colder and then blast the whole boat and re-spray it to clean up the entire hole inside and out
1:06
From what I've been told, a couple of things could be going on here. For the floor, most likely the reason it is popping up like this is that whenever the glass was originally put down on the floor when they redid it
1:17
because it was done on wood, either the wood was not wet out enough, and so when the glass was laid down on the resin
1:23
the wood sucked up most of the resin, leaving spots where there wasn't a good bond between the fiberglass and the wood
1:29
wood deck or that the wood was wet out but then it wasn't sanded between coats or too much time
1:35
passed between the coats which again leaves voids where the glass doesn't bond the way it's supposed to
1:41
then for these blisters these are actually where water has gotten into the paint or the gel coat
1:46
and just from sitting in the water all the time or from just a lot of use the water gets behind the
1:52
paint or the gel coat and then when it warms up it tries to evaporate which creates these blisters or
1:59
bubbles here on the sides. Since there isn't anything wrong with the deck itself, being made out of 3.5 inch plywood
2:11
it's plenty strong, just a little lumpy. For whatever reason that may be, the floor came out super wavy and they used a ton
2:18
of filler to try and flatten it out. I'm not sure if this is a resin-based filler or a form of bondo, but it's just really
2:25
thick in a lot of places. So it's starting to crack all over the trunk. Transom area and the deck here in the back as well as this cutout
2:40
And in order to resurface the deck, we'll be grinding all of this off the floor until we get down to the glass and the wood where we can get it decently flat and then we'll cover the deck with another layer of mat before gel coating
2:53
You might also notice that around the console here, there aren't any screws holding the console down. It's been glass
2:59
Last over, which with the shaking of the console, it's making the glass crack around the console
3:04
So we'll be putting some biax or woven glass strips around this lip to reinforce it
3:09
as well as probably end up putting screws in the console to try and help prevent this from cracking again for a long time
3:15
Really, it shouldn't be glassed together at all, but what's been done has been done, so it's what we've got to work with
3:21
When it comes to doing a project like this, the biggest thing is preparation
3:26
Because when you've got a grind and sand, you want to do it all at once
3:30
A couple of things about this too If you can you want to try and stay away from the corners and the edges They ask you how you are you I just want to say that you fine and you not really fine and you just can get into it because they would never understand
3:42
Curved edges and corners make the entire process a lot more tedious and it takes a lot more
3:46
time when it comes to the actual application of the glass. But the stages to this kind of project would theoretically go like this
3:54
First step is going to be to derig the entire project area of the boat
3:59
That means anywhere that you are going to be to do you are going to do. to be doing glass work needs to be derrigged and cleaned up. The engine derrigged, the steering
4:06
hoses, all of the rigging needs to be taken out of the way and tucked away. All the deck
4:10
hatches will need to be pulled off, the rubrails, cushions, and anything else that is in the area
4:15
where you will be working. Then with a clean ready area to work with, the next step is going
4:24
to be the grinding and preparation stage. With the intent to do all the sanding at once, the best
4:29
way to go about it is to start early in the morning and suit up. It's a crucial step when
4:34
grinding fiberglass that you suit up. You don't want to be doing a project like this without
4:39
having any kind of protection on. I'm Michael Jordan. Stop it. Get some help. That means a mask
4:45
long sleeves, pants, or a body suit, gloves, glasses, a hat of some kind, and closed shoes
4:52
This way you've got your entire body covered and protected before you start spraying fiberglass
4:58
dust all over the place. You will also want to have fans going to direct and blow the dust away from you and in a general direction
5:06
like towards your neighbor's house when they have their windows open. You will also want to have an air hose around so that you can blow the dust off of you
5:13
and off of the working area where you are grinding. By blowing the dust off, you can really see what's going on and whether you have the surface prepped the way you want it to be
5:23
By having your area prepped and ready to go with all of your tools in place
5:27
You can suit up and start early, allowing you to get all of the grinding and sanding done all at once
5:32
this way you won't have to get itchy again. Because this is the nastiest part of the job, and when it comes to grinding, you can use any tool that you want to
5:41
Anything from a grinder to a belt sander, the biggest key is that when you have to eat through a lot of filler or surface area
5:48
you want to start with a 24 or 36 grip pad. This will eat quickly through the surface
5:54
Then you can finish it off with something like a sander with a sander with a surface. 60 grid on it, depending on the job that you're doing
6:00
For our Seacraft project, it didn't really go exactly as we've laid it out here in the
6:05
first couple of steps, which is why we said theoretically, because you never know when
6:09
you'll be in the middle of a project like this and a tropical storm comes rolling through
6:13
to mess everything up. And seeing that a big portion of the deck was already ground out, the bare wood had to be coated
6:20
with resin in order to keep it from soaking up the water when the storm came through
6:24
Because if water soaks into the wood, then the fiberglass will never adhere to it until the wood dries back out again
6:31
And this added some more grinding to the project, but it had to be done
6:35
Just like back here where the rigging tubes and the steering hoses were previously coming out of the middle of the deck
6:41
These holes had to be filled up. But because of how wet the back of the boat is when it's in the water
6:47
the wood was starting to rot out around where the holes were drilled, so they had to be enlarged in order to get rid of the rotting wood
6:54
So after cutting out a template and cutting out some pieces of cusset to fill the holes with
6:59
they got a piece of fiberglass put on the back of them, then once that was dried, they got put in the holes in the deck
7:05
and glassed over the top of them as well sealing up and filling the old holes where the rigging was coming out of the deck causing a tripping hazard and just straight up taking up a lot of room from the back of the boat After the area is all ground out and prepped out though the next step is to clean it off completely
7:22
before desuting after grinding. Then you can lay out all of the fiberglass and get it all measured out and cut
7:29
I like to cut all the pieces and then lay them out on the deck or wherever they are going
7:33
to go. This way you know that they are all going to fit. then roll them up so that when you are applying the resin, you can roll them out into place
7:41
It's also nice to either number them with a marker or you can simply lay them in position
7:46
so that when you get to that spot, you can quickly grab the piece and lay it out, which is
7:51
going to be the next step and actually applying the fiberglass to the floor
7:56
When doing big areas like this, it's always going to be easier with more than one person helping
8:02
This way you can have someone mixing up your next batch of resin and have two other people
8:06
laying the glass where one person is wetting it out or applying the resin and then
8:11
someone else is coming behind them with what is called a rib roller in order to
8:15
roll out all the air out of the glass as it's soaking up the resin. You want to mix up your batches in manageable buckets as well like one or two quarts that
8:36
time, wetting out the area you're working on, laying the glass down, then soaking it with
8:42
resin, and then rolling the air out of the glass. And just working your way down the line or glass that you have already measured, cut, rolled
8:50
up and laid out to allow you to just glass out the entire project at once
9:06
It's important to remember also that different types of glass are going to take the resin differently
9:15
Say the woven glass compared to the mat, or say the cloth compared to the woven
9:23
The woven will take a lot more resin to wet out. But once you've got everything wet out and all done, you just have to wait to move on to
9:30
the next stage of the project depending on what you are trying to accomplish, which is the
9:35
unfortunate event of having to do more sanding and prepping. But after doing another sanding and
9:40
wiping down the surface with acetone, we can move into having an option of what we want to do next
9:45
We can either fare out the surface that we are working with or we can apply gel coat or paint
9:51
to the surface. For the deck, for more texture, we just apply gel coat. And gel coat is usually preferred
9:57
on say a floor over paint, because it is thicker, which I guess you could say makes it more
10:02
durable. But if you are working on say a gunnal or a vertical surface, it's usually nicer to go ahead
10:08
and fare out the surface before painting or gel coating. The fairing fills in any voids and gives you
10:14
that clean, smooth surface that you want your both sides to look like. And this can be done
10:18
right over the glass if you do it quick enough. Like take this crack back here around the
10:23
transom. After putting the glass on the crack to keep it from cracking again, you cover it with
10:28
the filler but at the same time making sure that the glass doesn't move on you
10:32
you. The filler is way easier to sand and it isn't as itchy as the actual fiberglass is
10:38
So making it a little thicker isn necessarily a bad thing especially when you are an amateur It easier to shape it out when you got a good amount to work with This way once you fared out your areas you can sand them down to a nice finish before painting or gel coating
10:53
It's important to have an air compressor around though. That way you can blow off the area after you've sanded it because there will usually be spots
11:01
in the filler that will need to be filled again, depending on how smooth you want your surface
11:06
to be. The air will blow out any dust that is covering up any of the holes
11:10
Now if you aren't faring out the surface though, then you just skip that step and go ahead
11:15
and put tape around wherever you are going to be gel coating. If you are spraying, then you'll need to cover up all the surrounding areas to keep any
11:22
overspray from getting on the rest of the boat. But otherwise if you are rolling it out, then just taping up your area to work in
11:30
And mixing up the gel coat with the hardening agent that you are using that will kick off
11:34
the gel coat depending on the brand you are using. We're using a polyester based resin and gel coat
11:40
So we are mixing in MekP with the gel coat to kick it off
11:44
It's also important that if you're doing layers of gel coat that the first layers are put
11:49
on without wax or a sanding agent. If you put on gel coat with wax in it, then it will need to be sanded in between coats
11:57
If you put it on without wax though, then you can just wipe down the surface with some acetone
12:02
and that will tack it up to make it adhere the way that it should with the next layer of gel coat
12:07
And for the last layer, it will need to have the sanding agent or the wax mixed in with it
12:12
And another pointer when working with any large area with resin or gel coat, you want to make
12:17
up manageable amounts of gel coat. Because if the sun comes out and it gets hot, then the mix will kick off quicker than you
12:23
can put it on. And you'll be left with a wasted batch of gel coat
12:28
So try not to do this if you can. But while you are putting it on, you want to go behind you putting on your nonskid
12:35
on how much of a non-skid you want, it's best to put it on thicker, because a lot of it isn't
12:40
going to stick and will just wash off once the gel coat is dried, unless you are doing multiple
12:45
layers, which will help give you a good, solid, non-skitted floor. Once you're done rolling on your gel coat though, you can go ahead and pull off all your tape
12:53
and let it dry, leaving you with a project that looks as good as you want it to, based on what
12:58
you're trying to accomplish. For us, on this boat, we still have some stages left to complete though
13:04
But eventually this boat is going to get the entire haul done in a gray color, so our goal
13:09
is to just get the boat back in the water, which means the next step after the gel coat dries
13:14
is the fun part of putting all the rigging back on the boat
13:17
We moved the rigging tube as far back against the transom as possible by cutting down the
13:22
rigging tube flange and just running the steering hoses out of the rigging tube from the
13:26
middle here with this adapter. And then once the engine was rigged, the steering hoses were put back together
13:32
We got the batteries reinstalled. the rub rail screwed back into place and drilled out and re-bolted the bracket back to the
13:39
Transom, making the boat pretty much ready for water. The keel was repaired during this entire process as well, but we only got a couple of clips
13:47
of the in-between stages of that process. It was just fixed using gel coat and this putty here, but after scooping the boat up with
13:54
the forklift and dipping it back into the water, she got a full thing of fuel and went
13:59
out for a nice little cruise. And you can also learn how to redo boats like this too by the video
14:04
visiting born again boating.com
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