Resurrecting Outboard Motors...

These propellers cost like five grand

Phenomenal. I would find out if you got bugs or not, and if you do got bugs, then you can tent the boat

A 9.9 Yamaha 4-stroke that hasn't been started for 15 years. Should I put some lubricant into the cylinders before I try turning it over

Absolutely. Please, yes, do that. Labernese says, I'm in the middle of resurrecting my double eagle and getting to my kicker motor

a 9.9 Yamaha 4 stroke that hasn't been started for 15 years

Should I put some lubricant into the cylinders before I try to? turning it over. Absolutely. Please, yes, do that. I love this topic. And yeah, you definitely

anything that hasn't been ran for 15 years, there's going to be no oil in that cylinder on your rings

on the piston, on the cylinder walls, on the valves. None of that stuff has any oil on it

So you definitely, and before even trying to turn it over, I would actually put the lubricant in

there, take your plugs out, put the lubricant in the cylinder, and then turn it over by hand

before you try turning it over with the starter if that 9.9 has a starter on it

That's just definite, definite, put some lubrication in there and try and turn it over by hand

get some oil on all the cylinder walls and all the rings and everything like that just to get things moving again

I mean, 15 years is a long time. You're also going to want to probably take the fuel line off of the intake after it goes through all the fuel system

and then prime new fuel through that entire fuel system. Like, let's say it's probably a carburetor

So you probably even want to take the carburetor off and clean that before even trying to start it

just because 15 years is a very, very long time. And you never know what a carburetor that's 15 years old that hasn't had any fuel run through it for that long is going to have in it

So just preemptively taking that off of there, cleaning it, spraying out all the jets

checking the float level, checking the floats, all that. kind of stuff, it would be very beneficial and then cleaning your spark plug, stuff like that

James Schultz, question about these new propellers that cost $5,000. I'm guessing that he's talking about the Shero props

These propellers cost like five grand, and a normal propeller is anywhere from $800 to $1,500

when you're talking about a stainless steel propeller that goes on roughly a 300 horsepower engine or above

But, yeah, I mean, as far as the technology there, I mean, the propeller is phenomenal

You get fuel economy, you get range, you get performance, just everything about the propeller works way better

There's less drag on it. So it's basically a normal propeller with a hole in the middle of the blade that allows water to flow through

But it's at such a design that it still grips the water

just as efficiently, if not more efficiently, than a normal propeller would

I've never got to play with them. Obviously, you know, $5,000 a pop, they're far and few between

That's only for like your normal ones too. Yeah, you got 150 to 450 horsepower and then 350 to 600 horsepower

And then you can pre-order some different props. Here's staggering performance improvements and a more enjoyable ride for 10 meters

a 30 meter range vessels with inboard engines. Doesn't have a price care protection

But yeah, they don't make anything. It looks like they don't make anything below 150 horsepower engine

But from what I've seen, everything about them is more efficient. From the fuel economy to, you know, the whole shot

It's pretty incredible. I mean, I really would like to see once they get the price down

I don't know exactly when or if that'll ever be where you've got, you know, a reasonable price point because say you hit ground and you got a $5,000 prop and you bend the blade, I mean, that's a pretty big hit compared to a $1,500 prop

Even though a $1,500 prop is a massive hit if you got to buy a new one, but that extra $3,500 is a major factor for pretty much everybody

even though, I mean, their biggest selling point that what they say is that because of the fuel economy and what you're saving, that 3,500 that you're going to pay for the prop is going to counterbalance based on your fuel economy and how much you have saved in fuel over X amount of years, depending on how much you use your boat

So as long as you're not hitting ground and you're not running in shallow waters, then it's probably a pretty good investment

if you run your boat enough. I mean, if you're running enough where you're spending, say, 10 grand on fuel in a year

which is a lot for most people, but those kinds of people that are spending that much in fuel and running the boat

this might be a pretty good investment because you're going to lower your fuel economy

And after you regain that amount of money that you spent to buy the propeller

then you're going to see savings on the other side of it. I know I say that it's basically a normal propeller with a hole cut in it, but it's really not

I mean, it's like a ribbon almost that go. So you got your prop and it's like a ribbon that's on top of it

It's totally weird. And I mean, it looks sweet, but I have not got to play around with very many of them

So Casper Whittrop, I have a 704 on my boat talking about a 704 control box

It's really hard to get into reverse. Is it a control box issue? a cable issue or an engine issue

So you're definitely going to have to do some testing here. I mean, control cables are actually pretty simple to try and diagnose

A lot of times it is the cables, but you need to separate the engine from the boat

So you just go back to your engine, take the caleling off, and then usually there's either a nut or a little clip

like a surclip or something, that's holding the cable onto the engine shift and throttle mechanisms

Take that clip off, slide your control cable off and then try and shift it and see if everything is going smoothly

If it is, then most likely the problems with the engine. So then all you got to do is try and hand shift the engine and move the throttle and see

if it all moves freely by hand there at the engine. If it does, then whenever you put your cables back on, all of a sudden it's very stiff

then you're probably have a problem with your cables. And there either a cut in the cable and it rusted something or there a tight bend somewhere or you know most likely 8 10 times out of 10 is going to be the control cables opposed to being a problem with your engine or your control

box but i mean if if your lower unit locks up something like that then that'll give you a hard

shifting you won't be able to shift at all and if you go further than that then you can pretty

much just you know once you've disconnected it from the engine and from the boat then you can go to the

control box take the control box part disconnect it from the control box part disconnect it from the control walks and then see if they move smoothly there too

And then also maybe kind of get back into your rigging tube and take a look at the

actual control cables to see if they have, you know, any kind of cut in them, if they're

rusting, if they're, you know, cut open or anything like that. And you can definitely be able to diagnose that outside of that

Most time it's the cables. You can just put some new cables in there and you will be good to go

Jared, hey man, I'm having a problem with my two stroke, one, 15 Yamaha and then having a problem finding someone to work on it

That's a pain point for a lot of people. There's two strokes that people don't want to work on anymore

The previous tech said it's a really good motor. It is. Yamaha 115

Probably that V4. The motor starts right up and has good compression

I had the upper and lower unit serviced, replaced the fuel lines, spark plugs, new steering

and new throttle control and rebuild the cars as well. when we go to run it, start up and we'll go 10 miles per hour, then bogs and shuts off

The tech said he doesn't know because it works for him in the tank tests

I'm just trying to fix this thing so we can use it, having a hard time finding a tech in Central Florida

Honestly, anytime you start saying with a two stroke goes 10 miles per hour and then bogs down

most of the time that's a carburetor issue. That's just what it is. It's most of the time it's a carburetor issue

maybe you got some jets that are worn out. I know it says that you rebuilt the carbs

but I mean, what does that really mean rebuilt? Did someone just take them apart and clean them

Did they actually get rebuilt with new jets and new seals and new floats and all that stuff

Or do you have a problem with the fuel supply to the carburetors

That could also be kind of an issue. Maybe you've got a clog in your fuel tank where your pickup is

If you're not getting fuel from the tank, to the carburetors, then you're going to bog down at 10 miles per hour or whatever you say

It's going to be harder for somebody that's trying to run it in a test tank because the engine's

going to start up an idle. And if it starts up an idle, then you can't really do anything until you put a load on it

and try and go wide open or you consume the fuel. So there's two tests that you could probably do that's going to make it easy

And you're going to definitely want to be careful when you do these tests because you're

messing with fuel and you're trying to make sure that it's not a fuel issue. So number one is whenever you go out and run it next

what you ought to do is take the calling off and then take the intake off

so you can see you straight into the carburetors and get yourself like a water bottle

or a spray bottle of something or something, poke some holes in the top of it, and then put it fuel and some oil mix together in that bottle

and then try and get the boat on plane as soon as it starts to bog out, try and squirt some of that fuel into the intake

If the engine starts to take off all of a sudden when you add fuel to it

then you know you've got a fuel restriction problem. And at that point in time, I would try and run on a shop tank

Get another fuel tank with fuel. And depending on if you're premixing this or not

then you're going to put whatever you're doing into that new fuel tank

and hook that straight to the engine just to make sure that you don't have a problem with the fuel tank that's in the boat

Because if you've got an anti-cyphive valve or you've got a dirty pickup in the fuel tank

the engine will start and run because it's got fuel. But then all of a sudden when you put the throttle down and try and get on plane and try and run wide open throttle

now all of a sudden you're consuming more fuel than the tank is supplying to the engine

And that is most likely going to be, that's the first place I would look. It's going to be a fuel issue when it bogs down like that

Yeah, it could be a electrical issue with your timing being off

but you want 100% make sure that it's not a fuel issue before you go

start trying to diagnose and replace electrical components on that engine, especially at two-struck

because most places where you're going to buy stuff like that is going to be, you know

all sales final. You can't, there's no refunds on electrical components. And so you definitely want to 100% make sure that you don't have a fuel supply issue

That's a 25-year-old carburetor or older. So maybe the jets are just whooped

and so when you say rebuilt what exactly does that mean and you kind of want to go from there

based on what you find with the fuel test if you add fuel does it get up and go and then also

making sure that you don't have a supply issue where the carburetors are clean but it's not

supplying enough fuel to the engine and you consume it all and it runs empty and then just bogs

out and you know you're running on fumes basically wonder if you had thoughts on this it's an

all craft 22 i've taken it to one place so far let me see what he's got going on here not a good

day found this on my boat um oh is that foam or wood

it looks like a bunch of wood chips like you've either got termites or ants

I would find out if you got bugs or not and if you do got bugs then you can tent the boat

I've seen it done a lot in South Florida especially on older wood boats people will

call an exterminator come out and just like if people tent their houses they'll tent the boat

and kill all the animals that are in there whatever the insects whatever that is that's

making that be hinkly I love I love watching your channel on YouTube. Thank you, sir. As I have learned so much about the

mechanicals of voting, however, I am looking for some advice about trying to remove my trim

cylinder caps as their seals are shot on my 90 Yamaha two stroke. I've tried a bunch of tools

and ended up breaking all the pins off and even try to hammer a screwdriver in a counterclockwise

rotation, and that didn't work either. I watched an old video you guys post about an adapter

for your torque gun, and I'm wondering if it is worth paying $100 for the adapt

or should I just try to find a mechanic around here with an actual impact hammer

Unfortunately, that isn't the easiest as Virginia boat mechanics won't touch anything over 10 years old

That getting to be that way in a lot of places where people just don want to work on old stuff because it breaks and there too too much new stuff that people want and fix and it a lot easier work on So I mean you definitely need either the adapter or an air hammer

There's no getting around it. Whenever you're talking about trim caps and stuff like that, it, yeah, they get stuck on there

And even when you use a hammer and a chisel, even if you got a three pound sledge

you're going to have to hit it pretty hard to get it to start to turn. And at that point in time

most likely you're going to destroy the cap before you even get to the point where you get it off

So air hammer or the adapter, those are your kind of two, only your two options that you've got

Yeah, that's basically it. You only have those two options. So if you can find somebody's got an airhammer, then definitely go that route

It's going to be cheaper. You're going to have to buy caps probably. But the only other route is to, yeah, buy that

adapter. Matthew, good evening. It is always a pleasure to watch your channel. Thank you. I have an issue with

my steering leaking from the helm fill port. We're replacing the fill vent cap with a new one

fix this issue. I notice that it leaks and runs down my helm and I can feel air in the system when I turn

my engine back and forth. Thank you for your help, Matt. Yeah, definitely. There's a vented cap on some of those

steering systems. And if you replace that vented cap because they can fail, then, yeah, that can fix

your problem. I would also make sure that it's not the quad ring that's leaking because that will

leak often too, which is once you take your steering wheel off underneath there, there's a little

cap on top of the helm, and there is a ring and O ring underneath that, but it's a round

ring, but it's not an O, it's in a square. So they call it a quad ring because it's got four sides

on it. And that will leak pretty often and run down the helm as well. There are vented fill caps

that do fail and replacing that fill cap that's vented, could fix your problem, yes

Black Dog, can you do a short video with the results of mounting the fuel tank

I'm curious to see what that looks like. So he's talking about on the bully netter

on the back where we put the fuel tank, we put the one on there with the starboard around the battery box

to stick that down and we made an L bracket. What I ended up doing is just taking the one L bracket

putting it in front of the bilge pump sticking that to the floor and now the fuel tank just rests up

against that so that way there's a lot of versatility with the boat and you can actually take the tank

and move it or put a smaller tank in there or anything like that so basically that's all we did with the

with the fuel tank is put that bracket in the back and then once you fill the fuel tank up with fuel

it doesn't go anywhere it just sits against that back bracket and it's stuck in place so there's not a whole lot

on that. I mean, making a video, kind of not, there's not much to see. Now, there's a ton of comments

like Lukinuki. I haven't found anything that glues starboard. I've tried epoxy's 5200 and double

side tape. I've tried scuffing the surface first too. If this works, it'll be a first. So

sticking starboard. Yes, there is nothing that sticks a starboard, especially 5200, even 5200

even 5200 will not stick to starboard. It's a very interesting plastic, I guess you could call it

And, yeah, unfortunately, there's nothing that sticks to it. But I found this plastic weld probably four or five years ago

And I actually did this on a different boat four years ago where I took the starboard

scuffed the back of it, and then scuffed where I was putting it onto. And I used the plastic weld to stick it on there

And it is held for four years now. So, I mean, surprisingly, it does work

I'm still waiting to see. We'll see, you know, after bouncing around and running it for a few years, we'll see how long it lasts

But the whole thing about the plastic weld is just like if you have a plastic welder

So there is a gun that is a plastic welder. And so like older boats like a triumph and those kinds of boats that are made out of this polyethylene or whatever it is, this plastic, that's how they put stuff together on those boats

And that's how they fix them. So if you take like a triumph and you get a whole

hole in it in order to fix that they use a plastic welder and so this jb weld plastic weld is kind of

the same thing only it's a liquid form i don't know what the chemical compound is that makes it up

but it's the only thing that i have found they will stick to starboard how long it will stick i'm

still testing that but from what i've seen over a period of over four years it seems to be pretty

durable and there's a there's a couple other brands that make ropelin that's it ropelin technology

Ropylene is an LDPE plastic, low density, polyethylene boat. So that LDPE is low density, polyethylene, basically it's a plastic

Now, what Starboard is is HDPE, which is high density polyethylene plastic, I guess you would say

The problem with Starboard is it's that material, whereas the boat is made out of the LDPE

and Starboard is the HPDE, but a lot of what a triumph is made out of is basically Starboard

And along with some of these other brands that are plastic boats

So you got Triumph, Logic Marine, and then there's another boat that's like an Australian boat

that's basically the same thing. The only kind of, the only problems with those boats

now that we're talking about that, is in hot climates, especially down South Florida

is they warp. So if you don't have them on like the right kind of bunk

then in the heat, the whole boat will warp. It's totally weird, but remember, the whole boat's made out of this LDP, low density, polyethylene plastic, basically

Say a 15-year-old triumph, most of them, the hull itself is warped in some fashion because it's sitting in the sun

And, I mean, especially like in the Keys, if you go out and take the temperature of, like, the rocks and the road and stuff like that in the middle of summer, it's like 130, 140 degrees

I mean, it might not get up to 140, but definitely 130. And that temperature in the direct sun, it will make the boat, you know, moldable, basically

And it melts it pretty much. Back to the starboard making something stick to it

Plastic weld is the only thing that I have found. And my guess is outside of using a plastic welder, like the LDPE, the triumphs made out of

Starboard being HPDE, you might be able to stick it on there. The problem with the plastic weld, it's quick

It's a weld. You you know as soon as you melt it and stick it out there and put it on there a few seconds and it you know it dried it it a welder Sean wondering the total cost of this repair demo is both still worth it

talking about the bullionetter and I have not made that video yet I'm still working on it

I did not keep as good of records as I should have with all the costs and all the time that

I spent on the boat I really should have done a better job keeping track of all that so I'm still

compiling all of the expenses and how much time I don't know if I'll be able to compile

my time because I didn't do a very good job of tracking my time that I spent on the boat

but definitely how much in materials I put on there, I'm going to be making that video here

very soon. Some stuff, though, is going to be a little bit different because I have a lot of stuff

And so some of the stuff that I put on the boat is stuff that I already had. Slang says

is that plastic glue better than 3M 5200 or 5400 adhesive? Think 5200 is the strongest of the two. We mainly use 52,000

200 and 4200 it won't stick to the starboard like we've been talking about 5200 won't stick to it

it will come off so we pretty much use 4200 because it's not as runny and it's almost as permanent

as the 52 john cLR works great on rust um yeah it does so that was talking about removing rust

from different stuff goof off rust removers probably my favorite but um cLR will work as well

Ryan says, awesome, if I want those lifts of all the outboards you lifted

where could you say the center of gravity in general is located vertically, horizontally

I can say that center of gravity located above the flywheel center. I'm trying to determine if I can position the center of gravity directly over the transom

using my trim and tilt. Thank you. Yeah, it depends on the model

So some models attach to the flywheel and have the center of gravity completely straight up and down

and then other ones, the hooks are in the back of the engine

and so the engine tends to tilt forward like this. So your powerhead moves forward

and the lower unit goes back as you lift it up based on the location of where the bracket

that mounts the transom is. And, yeah, it doesn't really matter because what you need to do is more, yeah

like you said, use the trim and tilt, and just unhook it, put power to it

and hit the trim button, and trim the bracket, to the right angle that your transoms at

So that way it just matches up perfectly. So your bolts will slide right on and in

and you won't have any problems. But by and large, I would say it's a 50-50 newer stuff

especially V models, V engines, generally anything four-stroke or newer, has hooks in the back that you pull it

so they lean forward. But some of the older stuff, older two-strokes, where the lifting eye would mount to the flywheel

that's where it would be. But at the same time, even a Verado L6 where you attach to the flywheel

it still tends to lean forward a little bit. Greg Feldman, like cars

there is death by abuse and death by sitting. Hard to say which is worse

I like that saying because that is totally true. Either you can abuse an outboard or a boat until it dies

or you can let it sit until it russ away and freezes up into a ball of worthlessness

Terry Moore, thanks so much. my release valve is stripped and it was good to see that it's okay to drill it out before

replacing it talking about a power tilt and trim manual relief valve a lot of times they get stuck

and just like the trim caps you got to be very precise when you get it off and if you don't have

a very big like a half inch flathead that gets a good like contact between that position it'll

strip out it's very common for those to strip out and so the best way to

to do it is yeah drill it out so you're going to drill it out relieve the pressure and then once you

you know get a hole into it if it's plastic that's a little bit easier to get out if it's not

plastic then yeah sticking an easy out or something in there that will or a reverse drill bit that

will take it out as you go in and you'll be able to get it out going that way all right i think

we got time for one more so red sea underwater world sherry says i would like to share my

quick question how the radar network signals pass through nema 2000 how it possible um they don't really

so most radars you know all radars are going to have some kind of a controller to them and you

basically have an antenna on the mount and the antenna hooks up through a network cable so it's

really more like a you know an ethernet cable that goes to your computer that network cable then

goes down and it depends on what brand of radar, what type of radar, how old it is, how new it is

and, you know, what's your MFD or your multifunction display is, and that will determine how it plugs

in outside of that. So you've got either a hub or a controller or sometimes it can hook up

straight to the MFD. But depending on the system, that network cable then hooks up to

that controller of however it is, whatever brand you've got. And then that is able to kind of share stuff through NEMA 2000

So you really aren't doing anything radar-wise with NEMA-2000. It's actually a network cable

which is completely different than your NEMA-2000. And then the power that goes to the radar is usually done through an amplifier or a converter

Depends on how big it is. I mean, you got 12-volt, 24-volt

36 volt. So it all depends on what it is. And a lot of those just have a converter that looks up to 12 volts

And then it converts it to either 36, 24, whatever, depending on how big of an antenna that you have

And then from the antenna, again, through the network cable, goes to the controller, whether that be a network hub or, you know, whatever it is, whatever system, whatever brand of radar you're having, it goes through a network cable, not through NEMA, 2,000

and then NEMA 2000 is just the MFDs and the system uses to talk to each other

It doesn't really use NEMA 2000 for your radar necessarily. And that's all the time that we have for this week

If you haven't yet, check out our boaters program at born again boating.com. We've got all kinds of new stuff coming out there

We even do weekly live streams. We were talking about last week we've got the new structured course set up where you can do

three years of boating experience and 30 days. You go through all these courses that pretty much give you three years

years of boating experience in those 30 days if you do the 30 minutes a day outside of that we will see you

next week